Category: Garments

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Garments Quality Standard

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Garments Quality Standard

Garments Quality Standard is now one of the most important factors that need to be maintained as because people are now more conscious about the quality of garments. The quality standards may vary from company to company, market to market, but there is some common quality standard which all garments always try to maintain. Here I am going to share a list of defects which must be avoided to ensure minimum Quality Standard for garments:

Garments Quality StandardGarments should not have these defects

  1. Needle cuts
  2. Holes
  3. Slabs
  4. Snags
  5. Open seams
  6. Broken stitches
  7. Puckering
  8. Raw edges
  9. More than one skipped stitch

Garments should avoid these manufacturing defects

  1. Defective Stitching
  2. Untrimmed or loose threads
  3. Pills
  4. Cleaning solution
  5. Embroidery hoop marks
  6. Stain or soils
  7. Part Shading
  8. Any unrelated operation
  9. Pleats in any seaming
  10. Contain dirt, Lint
  11. Uneven seam
  12. Insecure stitch
  13. Pinked edge
  14. Uneven tension

Some Defect must avoid in Finished Garments

  1. Fabric Fold marks
  2. Center Crease
  3. Any Fabric defect
  4. Unspecified color, shade, and cast
  5. Sleeves or legs shall be twisted
  6. Improper pressed
  7. All tape or stickers other than inspection stickers inside the garment
  8. Clip or Clamp
  9. Wrinkles, creases or other signs of poor pressing
  10. Pressing marks shine, scorching or burn marks
  11. Unnatural creases or folds
  12. Wavy or puckered seams
  13. Appearance of Repairing

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)

Facebook: Amirul Islam Washim
E-mail: [email protected]

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Pattern Making in Garments

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Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments. The appearance and fit of garments is highly dependent on each process. In the development of a garment pattern making is one of the most important step.

Pattern making in garments depends on the

  • Skill of the person
  • Technological Knowledge.
  • Analysis of design
  • Experience of garments making
pattern making in garments

Pattern Making Step

  1. Block pattern or Basic block
  2. Working or garment pattern

Block pattern or Basic block

Block pattern or basic block is individual component of garments without any design or style. It is produced according to exact dimension of standard body measurement where no allowance is considered.

Block patterns are made in two ways

a) Flat method

b) Modeling

Flat method

In Flat method the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing.

  • In technical drawing, the rule and application of method of body measurement and its ratio depends on pattern maker.
  • This type of pattern can be made by computer. In this case, the program of pattern of pattern making is stored in computer disk.
  • This method actually comes from modeling method.
  • This is a fast pattern making method.

Modeling

Modeling method is primary and first method of pattern making. Till now this method is used widely in apparel industry.

  • In modeling method, Block is made with standard body measurement of dummy is called Toile. Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings.
  • Then toil is worn out from the body of dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper.
  • This method is the most efficient method of pattern making but required more time in this method.

Garments pattern

  • On the basis of block pattern or basic block Garments pattern is made. Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper or board paper.
  • Sewing allowance, trimming allowance, button whole allowance, dart, and pleat is considered. Individual patterns are made for individual parts of garments.
  • In the pattern, grain line is showed by arrow.
  • After drawing of pattern, working pattern is separated from board paper by knife.
  • Size and name of individual parts are written on every part.
  • Simple garments are made from working pattern.

Written by

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser at buying house

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Difference Between Tailor and Garment

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Difference between Tailor and Garment

Garment can be made in both in tailor and in garments industry. What is the basic difference of these two ways of garment manufacturing process? Here mentioning the difference between the tailor and garments.

Tailor

  • In tailors, it takes 1 or 2 person to make a garment.
  • Generally garment is made for a particular person in tailor.
  • Garment is made according to the body measurement of a person.
  • In tailor no grading is done.
  • In tailor garment can be made from a machine.
  • Initial cost is relatively low.
  • Single ply of fabric is used.
  • In this way fabric wastage is high.
  • Risk of loss is least.
  • No need of pattern.
  • It takes a few hours to make a garment.

Garments

  • In garments, it takes many persons to make a garment.
  • A garment is made for many people.
  • Garment is made according to standard body measurement.
  • Grading is done in garments.
  • Generally many machines are needed for making a garment.
  • Initial cost is relatively high.
  • Multiple ply of fabric is used.
  • Fabric wastage is low.
  • Risk of loss is more.
  • Pattern must be required.
  • It takes less than one minute to make a garment.
difference between tailor and garment

Comparison picture of tailor & garments

Garments manufacturing is done with a long process in garments industry which can never be cleared in a single article. But today here I am going to present about the major sections of garments.

Different section of garments

There are mainly four sections in garments manufacturing industry. They are as follows.

  1. Sample section
  2. Cutting section
  3. Sewing section
  4. Finishing section

Sample section

The main function of this section is to make approve sample. This section is the first and important section. This section includes, “ Designing to marker making”.

Cutting section

This section includes process starting from “ Marker making” to “sorting & bundling”. The main function of this section is to cut fabric according to the marker dimension.

Sewing section

The function of this section is to make a complete garment by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.

Finishing section

This section includes process from “Ironing to send to buyer”. After making sample, it should be treated by steam, iron and use in it all of the finishing accessories and ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyers approved sample.

Written by

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser at buying house

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Process Sequence of Fabric Cutting

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In garments manufacturing fabric cutting means to cut out the garments pieces from lays of the fabric with the help of cutting template or marker. Cutting is one the major step to make a complete garment. For cutting of fabric generally the marker is applied to the top ply of a lay.

Process Sequence of Fabric Cutting Section

In garments manufacturing industry the term cutting is used in different meaning. Here the term cutting is used in the sense of cutting room which indicates an area which normally includes the activities of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing.

Stages of fabric cutting

Generally fabric cutting is carried out with two stages. They are as follows:

  1. Cutting (Separating the individual pieces.)
  2. Final cutting ( accurate cutting of the individual shapes)

Objectives of Cutting

  • To separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the dimension of the marker.
  • To make the garments according to required design and shape.
  • To prepare garments pieces to go forward with next process of garments manufacturing.
process sequence of fabric cutting section

Cutting Section in a Garment Factory

Requirement of fabric cutting

To achieve the required objectives by cutting of fabric in garments manufacturing process, the following requirements must be fulfilled.

  • Precision of cut.
  • Clean edges
  • Unscorhed , infused edges
  • Support of the lay
  • Consistent cutting

Different types of fabric cutting

There are mainly three types of cutting techniques. They are as follows:

  1. Completely by manual
    1. By hand operated Scissor.
  1. Manually operated powered knife
    1. Straight knife
    2. Band blade
    3. Round blade
    4. Die cutter
    5. Notcher
    6. Drill
  1. Computerized technique
    1. Knife cutting
    2. Cutting by water jet
    3. Laser cutting
    4. Plasma torch cutting

Flow Chart of fabric cutting

flow chart of fabric cutting

Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting

Working procedure in fabric cutting section

  1. By following production planning at first sample is collected from sample section with pattern and garments approved.
  2. Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section
    1. e Item, fabric width, color etc.
  3. After putting all information in order sheet then send to CAD section for marker making. Or if it is to do manually than make marker manually.
  4. Checking marker after getting marker.
  5. Sending fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.
  6. Receiving fabric in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.
  7. Matching fabric to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric.
  8. Then starting layering manually or with machine.
  9. Completing layering then spread marker upon on the fabric.
  10. Marker checking by quality people & keep all document of style , size wise report to send to store & sewing section.
  11. Before cutting attaching clamp and gum tape on the layer.
  12. If there is any drill mark in marker then need to drill.
  13. Starting cutting by cutter man.
  14. Then dividing group and ratio wise.
  15. Make bundle chart as per lay order sheet and sending for bundle card printing.
  16. Numbering as per bundle chart wise.
  17. Panel checking.
  18. If there is any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shade wise then bundle and send to sewing section.
  19. If there is any fusing or embroidery then send for this process.

So, hopefully it was helpful for you to understand. If you like it do not forget to put down your valuable comment and share on facebook

Written by

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser at buying house

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Manufacturing Process of Garments Sample

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How to Make Garments Sample

Today I am going to discuss the manufacturing process of the garments sample. Sample section is a very important section of garments industry. Garments styling mainly engaged with design, cutting or sewing which is done in the sample section as buyer’s requirement.

Manufacturing Process of Garments Sample

manufacturing process of garments sample

Flow Chart of Garment Sample Manufacturing

Now I am going to discuss these term of the above flow chart.

Design/Sketch

This is the first of garments manufacturing. For this step is mainly done by a designer and designing team. Generally, this design or sketch is given by the buyers. Sample section does sample on given sketch or design.

Basic Block

A basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

Working Pattern

Working pattern is that pattern which is made for a particular style with net dimension.

Sample Garments

For bulk production, sample garments are needed.

Production-related problem

If there is any kind of problem then this problem should be eliminated in this step.

Approved Sample

After completing the sample, a sample is sent to a buyer for approval. The sample which is approved by buyers is called approved sample.

Written by

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser at buying house

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Famous Denim Brand in the World

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What are the Famous Denim Brand in the World?

Denim can be considered as the staple garment of the world as all of the people irrespective of their location, age, gender and status own a pair of jeans or two. It’s hard to find a wardrobe where there are no denim products in it. Europe, America or Asia, denim is the most common casually used outfit. The global market value of denim products are projected to reach a mammoth sixty five billion dollars by 2015.

famous denim brand in the world

Nice Ladies Denim Pant

Bangladesh Denim Market

Bangladesh is one of the most important centers for denim apparel production and export around the world. In fact, it has come up as the third most important exporter of denim apparel to US after Mexico and China and second highest to EU after China.  So, as a textile person we should know about worldwide famous brand of denim because it is a potential sector of Bangladesh garments.

 Worldwide renowned Denim Brands

Here I am presenting some worldwide famous denim brand name:

Some of the famous denim brands are as follows

  • Wrangler
  • Levis
  • G Star
  • Armani Brand
  • Lee
  • Diesel
  • Gap
  • Tommy Hilfiger
  • True religion
  • Guess
  • Pepe jeans
  • Calvin Kelvin
  • Lucky
  • Rock and republic
  • Seven for all Mankind
  • APC

Swedish Denim brand

  • Nudie jeans
  • Acne
  • Cheap Monday

Pakistani Denim brand

  • Stone Age
  • Cross Road
  • Leisure Club
  • Club X
denim jacket

Nice Denim Jacket

 

By

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser at buying house

 

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Fabric Consumption of a basic Polo-shirt

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Fabric Consumption of a Basic Polo-shirt

Consumption determination of fabric is a very important term in the textile sector. Since it depends on fabric prices therefore accurate and closure consumption will reduce fabric wastage which will be beneficial for us economically. So, we should keep proper knowledge of fabric consumption properly.

Here today I am going to present fabric consumption of a basic polo-shirt.

Fabric consumption of a polo-shirt is the sum of fabric consumption of different parts of polo-shirt:

  • Fabric consumption for a body part.
  • Fabric consumption for Sleeves.
  • Fabric consumption for half-moon
  •  Fabric consumption for a pocket.

For calculating fabric consumption of a basic polo-shirt following measurement will be needed.

  1. Body Length
  2. ½ Chest
  3. Sleeve length
  4. ½ Armhole
  5. Length of half- moon
  6. Width of half-moon
  7. Length of pocket
  8. Width of pocket
Fabric Consumption of Polo shirt

Polo Shirt

So, now consider

  • Body length
 = 72 cm (For body length allowance = 3+1.5 = 4.5 cm)
  • ½ Chest
 = 58 cm (For chest allowance = 2+2= 4 cm)
  • Sleeve length
 = 23 cm (For sleeve length allowance = 2+1.5= 3.5 cm)
  • ½ Armhole
 = 24 cm (For sleeve opening allowance = 2+1 = 3 cm)
  • Length of half-moon
 = 18 cm (allowance = 1.5+1.5 = 3 cm
  • Width of half-moon
 =10 cm (allowance = 1.5+1.5 = 3 cm)
  • Length of pocket
 = 12 cm (allowance = 2.5+1 = 3.5 cm)
  • Width of pocket
 = 11 cm (allowance = 1+1 = 2 cm)
  • GSM
 = 180 (Lacoste)
  • Wastage %
 = 8%

Fabric consumption per dozen, (all measurement in cm)

Fabric Consumption Per Dozen

Fabric Consumption Per Dozen

So,

For every part of a polo shirt,

= 2.04+0.61+0.06+0.04 kg/dz

= 2.75 kg/dz

So, Fabric consumptiuon for a polo shirt,

= 2.75 + 8% of 2.75 kg/dz (Here 8% is wastage of fabric)

= 2.75 + .22 kg/dz

= 2.97 kg/dz

 

So, Fabric consumption of a polo-shirt = 2.97 kg/dz

Note: Here I have made consumption of polo shirt which has a pocket. Here I did not mention collar and cuff consumption because maximum time in a polo shirt there is used a flat knit collar and cuff.

If you like it, please don’t forget to put your valuable comments

 

By,

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

BS.c engineer of textile

Merchandiser at Buying House

Facebook: Sheikh Nurja

Skype: Merchandiser.nurja

LinkedIn: Sheikh Nurja

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Consumption of a Trouser

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Consumption of a Trouser

Consumption determination of fabric is a very important term in the textile sector. Since it depends on fabric prices therefore accurate and closure consumption will reduce fabric wastage which will be beneficial for producing trouser with a competitive cost. So, we should keep proper knowledge of fabric consumption properly. Hopefully, after reading this article you will understand how you can calculate the consumption of a trouser. Before taking order from buyer’s, it is merchandiser responsibility to calculate the fabric consumption of trouser then according to the consumption and costing bargain with the buyer.

Here today I am going to present the fabric consumption of a trouser.

Fabric Consumption of a Trouser

Consumption per dozen (when all measurement is in cm)

Consumption of a trouser

Measurement of Consumption of a Trouser

Consumption per dozen (when all measurement is in inch)

consumption of trouser

So, according to given value fabric consumption per piece, 0.224 or 0.225 kg/piece.

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

Merchandiser

If you like this article please do not forget to share on facebook and put your valuable comment.

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Measurement of a T-shirt

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How to measure a T-shirt

Proper measurement is a very important term of textile sector. If we don’t have proper knowledge of the actual measuring way of garment we may face some unexpected situation in the working place i.e. to learn from junior class personnel. And you also may have a question in your mind that how to take a measurement of a t-shirt. So, today I am going to share with you the proper measuring way of a T-shirt which I have learned in my working place.

Measurement of a T-shirt

Measurement instruction of a T-shirt

Measurement of a T-shirt

For measuring a T-Shirt you need to take the measurement of the following 7 parts of our body

    1. Chest
    2. Waist
    3. Bottom
    4. Center back length/ T-shirt length
    5. Sleeve opening
    6. Sleeve length
    7. Shoulder

  1. Chest

Lay your T-shirt on the ground or on a table and place the fabric of T-shirt nicely so that there are no wrinkles underneath or on top. Now place the measurement tape 1 inch or 2.5 cm below of armhole and side seam adjusting point or armpit.

  1. Waist

For measuring the waist of T-shirt we have to find out the narrowest part of the T-shirt. Generally, it is in the halfway of the armpit and the bottom of the T-shirt. Measure across from the left of the T-shirt to the straight right.

  1. Bottom

Place the measurement tape on the left of the T-shirt straightly to the right of the T-shirt. Ensure that there are no wrinkles during lay down of T-shirt.

  1. Center Back Length/T-shirt length

Lay the T-shirt on the ground or on a table facing up of the back of the T-shirt. Now, place the measuring tape at the seam where the collar band attaches with the yoke. And carefully measure at the straight direction to the middle of the back the T-shirt to the hem where the longest point.

  1. Sleeve Opening

Place the measurement tape on the left of the sleeve straightly to the right. Ensure that there are no wrinkles during lay down of T-shirt.

  1. Sleeve Length

Lay the T-shirt with the back facing up. Extend a sleeve of T-shirt (you can try right sleeve which will be easy to measure with right hand) smoothly avoiding any wrinkle. Place the measuring tape at the middle point on the armhole seam line straightly to the bottom of the sleeve.

  1. Shoulder

By laid flat with a back facing up, place the measuring tape from left top armhole hole seam point to the right top armhole seam point straightly. Take the reading. This is a shoulder of this T-shirt. Ensure then there are no wrinkles during lay down of T-shirt.

If you like this …. Don’t forget to post your valuable comment or any asking.

Sheikh Nurja
B.Sc. Engineer of Textile
Merchandiser
E-mail: [email protected]
Facebook: Sheikh Nurja
Skype: Merchandiser.nurja

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Denim Market Overview in Bangladesh

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Denim Market Overview in Bangladesh

Nowadays denim product is a very important product of garments sector all over the world. Beside Bangladeshi, foreigner investors are also increasing investment in the denim production related sector. And for increasing business environment of denim in Bangladesh different types of the exhibition are organizing in Bangladesh.

From last 15th October 2014, there are going on an exhibition of denim for two days in hotel Radisson.

Denim pant

Denim Pant

Till now Bangladesh is not in a good position of producing denim fabric. Maximum time we are importing denim fabric from China, India, and Pakistan.

Recently in a survey, we have come to know that in EU country we are in the second position in exporting of Jeans and in the United States of America we are in the third position.

In denim product which is included to be exported are shirt, Pants, Jacket, Blazer etc.

Denim Market Overview in Bangladesh

A Beautiful Denim Jacket

In Bangladesh, there are about twenty-five institutes which are producing denim fabric. But this is not enough as the requirement of denim fabric. We are in the back position of producing denim fabric rather than other countries. Beside ready-made garment of denim, if we want to increase our profit from denim section than we should try to increase denim fabric production. Because among all backward linkage (backward linkage means these which are related to making ready-made garments) fabric plays the vital role.

As denim product is a very potent part of garment sector so we should be more careful about its production. But for increasing denim related investment in the textile sector, there also should have proper gas and power supply system. And in that purpose Government should come forward.

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