Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Blouse Manufacturing

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Blouse Manufacturing

A blouse is worn by the women in South Asian, it is worn in the upper part of a body. As per this sewing operation bulletin, total SMV is 4.73 and 25 sewing machine will be needed. Here also available downloadable excel sheet for your clarification. Hopefully, after reading this you will have a good idea of Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Blouse Manufacturing.

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Blouse Manufacturing
1 Front Two part O/L 3T O/L 0.1 600 0.53 1
2 Front two-part joint S/N 0.15 400 0.79 0.5
3 Btn placket making mark & Make S/N 0.25 240 1.32 1
4 Ticken Mark at back part Helper 0.15 400 0.79 1
5 Ticken tack at back part S/N 0.16 375 0.85 1
6 Solder joint 5T O/L 0.15 400 0.79 1
7 Slv rolling S/N 0.25 240 1.32 1
8 Slv joint 5T O/L 0.3 200 1.59 2
9 Side joint 5T O/L 0.2 300 1.06 1
10 Hanger loop, Btn loop measure & Cut Helper 0.22 273 1.16 1
11 Hanger loop tack S/N 0.15 400 0.79 1
12 Btn loop Make & joint S/N 0.2 300 1.06 1
13 Neck tape joint with body S/N 0.45 133 2.38 2
14 Neck top stt. S/N 0.35 171 1.85 2
15 Front Hem tape joint with body S/N 0.5 120 2.64 3
16 Back Hem tape joint with body S/N 0.3 200 1.59 2
17 Back Hem tape Top stt. S/N 0.2 300 1.06 1
18 Front Hem tape Top stt. S/N 0.45 133 2.38 2
19 Tack at underarm S/N 0.1 600 0.53 0.5
20 Main lbl joint S/N 0.1 600 0.53 0.5
TOTAL     4.73 0.19 25 25
  GRAND TOTAL     4.73 0.19 25 25

Summary of Sewing Operation Bulletin of  Blouse Manufacturing

1 S/N 18
2 D/N
3 O/L
4 3T O/L 1
5 4T O/L
6 5T O/L 4
7 2T F/L (Chain)
8 Button Attach
9  F/L
10 F/O/A
11 Ironman
12 Helper 2
13 Chain stc
14 O/L (Chain)
15 Buttonhole


  • S/N Single needle lock stitch
  • D/N Double needle lock stitch
  • O/L Overlock machine
  • 3T O/L 3 Thread overlock machine
  • 4T O/L 4 Thread overlock machine
  • 5T O/L 5Thread overlock machine
  • F/L Flat Lock machine
  • F/O/A Feed of the arm

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Blouse Manufacturing

Blouse Operation Bulletin (excel)

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

What is RFT, RFT Factors and Calculation in Apparel Industry

What does Right First Time (RFT) Mean?

Right First Time is lean tools that mean doing the thing right in the first time which can remove eliminate or repair and defects producing in garments manufacturing. RFT percent is one of the key performance indicator tools in Garments quality control. In this article, we will discuss What is RFT, RFT Factors and Calculation in Apparel Industry.

What is RFT, RFT Factors and Calculation in Apparel Industry

What is RFT, RFT Factors and Calculation in Apparel Industry

Advantages/Benefits/Importance of Producing Right the First time

  1. Reduce cost and penalty of quality failure
  2. Improve quality and productivity
  3. Remove re-work and repairing
  4. Save time and energy
  5. Save defects rectification cost
  6. Improve work accuracy

RFT calculation for Cutting, sewing, finishing, and Quality Control

Right First Time = (Number of passed goods or Lot / Number of total produced Garments or Lot) x 100

For example, If 200 pcs Garments is produced in the sewing section, found 13 pcs defect by QC then first pass quantity is =(200-13)= 187 pcs.

So, Sewing RFT will be = (187/200*100) % = 93.5%

Date RFT Defect %
4/11/2017 95.67% 4.33%
5/11/2017 96.54% 3.46%
6/11/2017 96.57% 3.43%
7/11/2017 95.80% 4.20%
8/11/2017 96.20% 3.80%
9/11/2017 96.74% 3.26%

Actual and Target RFT

Date Actual RFT Target RFT Total Check Quantity
1-Jul 93.40% 96% 2500
2-Jul 93.50% 96% 2600
3-Jul 93.10% 96% 2400
4-Jul 94.20% 96% 3000
5-Jul 94.60% 96% 3500
6-Jul 93.50% 96% 2500

RFT Key Factor Areas of Garments Manufacturing

There may have others area you need to count RFT, I am giving here what I know. Surely RFT is a performance measuring tool of quality control.

  1. Cutting panels quality
  2. Sewing output garments quality
  3. Finishing packed garments quality
  4. Final Audit RFT.

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing

A jacket is not an easy product to produce in sewing section, lots of complex operation in it.  As per this Operation bulletin total SMV is 44.97, 73 sewing machines needed and manpower should be 75. This content would help you to know about Operation breakdown, SMV and Layout of woven Jacket manufacturing of sewing what given in below. In this article, we are going to share details of Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing.

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing1

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Jacket Manufacturing
NO OPERATION M/C Type Attachments M/C TGT MAN LAY Seam Length
1 Hood panel joint (shell) S/N 0.8 75 1.33 1
2 Hood panel 1/4 T/S D/N 0.75 80 1.25 1
3 Inner side Hood panel joint(sherpa) S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
4 Facing jnt with lining psn at hood mouth opening S/N 0.9 67 1.5 1
5 Hood mouth opening ruling S/N 0.5 120 0.83 1
6 Hood placket mark for make & decoration Helper 0.9 67 1.5 1
7 Hood placket  make & decoration S/T S/N 0.85 71 1.42 1
8 Hood mark for 4 points snap button attach Helper 0.4 150 0.67 1
9 Hood mouth opening 1/16 T/S S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
10 Hood eye hole 2 points for dawcode insert Buttonhole 0.55 109 0.92 1
Front & back part lining              
11 Lining 2 part middle joint S/N 0.65 92 1.08 1
12 Hanger loop make & joint at back neck S/N 0.5 120 0.83 1
13 Patch label iron & Bon Fusing IRON 0.8 75 1.33 1
14 Lining back yoke joint S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
15 Patch & main label joint S/N 0.95 63 1.58 2
16 Inner chest pocket & side H/pocket facing joint S/N 0.6 100 1 0.5
17 Inner chest pkt bone mark Helper 0.35 171 0.58 0.5
18 Inner chest pkt bone make D/N 0.35 171 0.58 1
19 Inner chest pkt  bone cutt & turn Helper 0.35 171 0.58 1
20 Inner chest pkt bone 1/16 T/S (upper & lower) S/N 0.75 80 1.25 1
21 Inner front panel joint S/N 0.85 71 1.42 1
22 Inner front panel 1/16 T/S S/N 0.9 67 1.5 0.5
23 Lining sleeve panel joint S/N 0.75 80 1.25 0.5
Front part (shell)              
24 Front side H/pocket Mark & bone mark for snp btn attach Helper 0.5 120 0.83 1
25 Front side H/pocket bone make D/N 0.8 75 1.33 1
26 Front H/pkt bone cutt& turn Helper 0.75 1 1.25 1
27 Front H/pkt bone 1/16 T/S (upper) S/N 0.6 100 1 2
28 Front H/pkt bone 1/16 T/S (Lower) S/N 0.6 100 1 1
29 Front  H/pkt bone decoration S/T S/N 0.55 109 0.92 1
30 Twill tap joint chest & waist psn S/N 0.85 71 1.42 1
31 Shoulder tap & slv cuff tap iron IRON 0.5 120 0.83 1
32 shoulder tap & slv cuff tap make & 1/16 T/S S/N 0.07 857 0.12 1
34 Shoulder jnt & tap jnt with shoulder psn S/N 0.5 120 0.83 1
Back part shell              
35 Back part middle 2 part joint S/N 0.85 71 1.42 1
36 Back part middle 2 part 1/16 T/S S/N 1 60 1.67 2
37 Faching jnt at wist psn ( inside) D/N 0.6 100 1 1
38 Faching attach at bk lower middle psn S/N 0.4 150 0.67 1
Assembly part              
39 Shoulder jnt (Lining) S/N 0.4 150 0.67 1
40 Sleeve jnt (Lininig) S/N 0.8 75 1.33 1
41 Side seam jnt (Lining) S/N 0.9 67 1.5 1
42 Sleeve panel jnt (Shell) S/N 1 60 1.67 2
43 Sleeve panel 1/16 T/S (shell) S/N 1 60 1.67 2
44 Sleeve jnt (Shell) S/N 0.85 71 1.42 1
45 Armhole 1/4 T/S D/N 0.8 75 1.33 1
46 Hood joint S/N 1 60 1.67 2
47 Hood neck 1/16 T/S S/N 0.75 80 1.25 1
48 Side joint (Shell) S/N 0.9 67 1.5 2
49 Placket mark Helper 0.6 100 1 2
50 Placket make & 1/16 T/S S/N 0.9 67 1.5 2
51 Placket with zipper jnt S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
52 Zipper jnt (Right side) S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
53 Zipper jnt (Left side) D/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
54 Mark for snp btn 18 points Helper 0.8 75 1.33 1
55 Punch &attach  for snp btn 18 points Button Attach 1 60 1.67 2
56 Sleeve cuff with elastick jnt S/N 0.6 100 1 1
57 Lining slv with cuff joint S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
58 Sleeve mouth opening rulling S/N 0.6 100 1 1
59 Mark for grumet attach at front & bk mdl drawcode unsert psn Helper 0.5 120 0.83 1
60 Punch & attacg 4 points Grumet psn at waist SNAP BTN 0.6 100 1 1
61 Shell & lining joint with front opening psn ( right) S/N 0.75 80 1.25 1
62 Shell & lining joint with front opening psn ( Left) S/N 0.75 80 1.25 1
63 1/4 T/S psn at front opening psn S/N 0.7 86 1.17 1
64 Faching jnt with btm hem (insid) S/N 0.9 67 1.5 1
65 Back btm slit cut T/S S/N 0.45 133 0.75 1
66 Btm hem S/N 0.5 120 0.83 1
TOTAL     44.97 0.6 75 73

Summary of Operation bulletin, SMV and Layout of woven Jacket manufacturing

1 S/N- Single needle lock stitch 52
2 D/N- Double needle lock stitch 6
3 O/L- Overlock machine
4 3T O/L- 3 thread Overlock machine
5 4T O/L- 4 thread Overlock machine
6 5T O/L- 5 thread Overlock machine
7 2T F/L (Chain)- Flat lock machine
8 Button Attach 2
9  F/L- Flat lock machine
10 F/O/A- Feed of the arm
11 IRON 2
12 Helper   10
13 Chain stc
14 O/L (Chain)
15 Button hole 1

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Visual Management System in Apparel Industry

Visual Management System in Apparel Industry

Visual management is a part of lean manufacturing; an effective and standard method to communicate with every level of a factory with necessary information, a concept is to understand everything when a person visits manufacturing floor by visual data display system also include an important message for employees for learning, doing and achieve. Visualization boards applied in a factory for delivering information such as production status, production trend, Quality controlling status, delivery performance, and customer report. Visual controls are means, devices, or mechanisms that were designed to manage or control our operations (processes) so as to meet the purposes: informative, identification, instructional and planning. Here in this article, you will have an idea of what we can visualize, tools used, and advantages of Visual Management System in Apparel Industry.

Visual Management System in Apparel Industry

What are Generally Visualize in Garments Factory

  1. Hourly production board
  2. Efficiency graph, individual and line wise
  3. Quality DHU%, RFT
  4. Production and Quality target, Target vs Actual
  5. A counter sample for the sewing line
  6. Production Downtime & Performance Dashboard
  7. Delivery performance report
  8. All KPI reports
  9. Responsibilities of sewing operator
  10. Pareto analysis
  11. Kanban board
  12. Best sewing line names, best supervisors and operator
  13. Section wise safety assessment list and picture

Digital Visual Board in Garments Production Floor


List of Tools can be Used to Visualize Garments Factory

  1. Visual control boards
  2. Digital computerized board
  3. Visual workstation
  4. Signs, labels, name tags and direction
  5. Borders, lines; level scales
  6. Board, Shadow board, shadows, color codes and displays (i.e. Colour and shape)
  7. Graphs, info graph charts,
  8. Photos, films,
  9. Posters
  10. Mascots,
  11. Sketches
  12. Drawings
  13. Models
  14. Sticky
  15. Decision
  16. Trees,
  17. Kanban systems (cards, lights)

Advantages/ Benefits of Visualization in the Apparel Industry

  1. Increase effective communication and easy understanding for all
  2. For successful outcomes from the production floor
  3. Immediate assessment of the daily and weekly goals
  4. To motivate employees
  5. To familiarize or set the stage for a performance/event
  6. Absorb information quickly.
  7. Understand the next steps
  8. Share the insights with everyone
  9. It’s easy to understand and clarify
  10. Proper and regular updates
  11. Immediate Performance Information
  12. Evidence of actual achievement

This article also refers to

  • Visualize Garments factory
  • How to visualize Garments manufacturing key tools

Visual Management in the Apparel industry pdf

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

What is WIP, WIP Calculation, Reducing, Reporting in Garments Manufacturing

What is WIP, WIP Calculation, Reducing, Reporting in Garments Manufacturing

What is WIP? What does WIP mean in Apparel Industry? WIP means Work In-progress or In-process, an inventory system in the Garments manufacturing process in cutting, sewing and finishing but not for raw materials warehouse or finished goods warehouse. WIP for manufacturing floor the quantity between input and output what backlogged in production. In this article we will see the details of What is WIP, WIP Calculation, Reducing, Reporting in Garments Manufacturing.

What is WIP, WIP Calculation, Reducing, Reporting in Garments Manufacturing

WIP Calculation of Cutting, sewing, Washing, and Finishing

  • Cutting WIP = Total cut quantity – Total quantity inputted to sewing section

For example, Cutting section cut total 10,000 pieces for style# 5572819 and 7520 pieces have been inputted to the sewing department, then cutting room WIP will be =(10,000-7520) =2480 pieces.

  • Sewing Line WIP = Total pieces (GMTS Qty) inputted to the line – Total number of garments sewing output completed

For example, if a sewing Line totals 7520 pieces have been got input for style#5572819 and total 3500 pieces are produced from the line. Sewing line WIP is (7520-3500) = 4020 pieces.

Limiting washing WIP is very much important because most factories don’t have own washing facility. So they have to send Garments to another factory for washing. Delaying in washing can effect on time delivery.

  • Washing WIP= Total Garments sent to washing – Total Garments received from washing

Finishing, the last stage of Garments manufacturing, garments manufacturer challenge limiting washing and finishing WIP. Every factory especially follows up washing and finishing WIP to maintain on-time delivery to the customer.

  • Finishing sections WIP = Total Garments received from washing – Total packed quantity

WIP Report Format for the Apparel Industry

It is very easy reporting WIP, doesn’t need to make a format for checking WIP, you can keep WIP calculation in a production report. Here excel reporting format uploaded to download for all of you.

Cutting and Sewing WIP

Daily Production Report – Sewing
Line Name Style Order Quantity Al. Quantity Input Date Day Input Ttl Input Day Output Total Output Input Balance Output Balance Line WIP
A 808-8126 18211 19571 28-May-18 15401 1440 15300 4170 4271 101
A & B 808-8129 11897 12851 31-May-18 579 12413 1552 12407 438 444 6
B 834-4100 3000 3242 7-Jun-18 1263 3122 1208 2140 120 1102 982
C 808-2844 6570 6936 30-May-18 6714 925 6095 222 841 619
E 899-4241 30912 21278 22-May-18 2108 21278 1300 18330          – 2948 2,948
F 899-4241 30912 10444 4-Jun-18 2108 10444 1600 9590          – 854 854
G 808-8514 3060 3444 9-Jun-18 1099 305 305          –          – 794
H RM1005109 3202 3425 9-Jun-18 889 1996 600 600 1429 2825 1,396
I RM1020409 4115 4445 6-Jun-18 4384 1205 3540 61 905 844
J RM1020509 5854 6243 4-Jun-18 6174 1500 5961          –          – 213

Washing and Finishing WIP Report

Total Sent to Wash Day Receive from Wash Total Receive from Wash Work in Process in Wash
25401 7 25192 209
17234 61 17112 122
10082 54 10057 25
13065 33 13050 15
16154 44 16150 4
2173 82 2137 36
Total Wash Receive Day Poly Total Poly Poly Balance/Finishing WIP
79274 1200 3500 75774
19545 320 1850 17695
531 55 111 420
104 100 100 4
4664 1800 3855 809

Download WIP report format in excel chart

How to Limit excessive Work In-process (WIP) in Garments production Floor

  1. Reducing bottleneck and productivity improvement
  2. Adding machines and improving workforce
  3. Proper Layout and machine allocation
  4. Follow Kanban board in the production floor
  5. Keeping accurate production flow chart/ sequence
  6. Producing a good quality product and stopping re-work

Problems of Excessive WIP for Apparel Industry

  1. Transit areas become obstructed and blocked
  2. Garments gathering in the workplace
  3. Garments inadequate to maintain a good appearance
  4. Hamper normal production flow
  5. Poor housekeeping

This Content also have an answer of below points

  • How to find out WIP in the Apparel industry
  • Limiting WIP in the Apparel industry
  • WIP follow up in the Apparel industry
  • WIP calculation of Cutting
  • WIP calculation of Sewing
  • WIP calculation of Washing
  • WIP calculation of Finishing

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Kanban Board in Garments Manufacturing Production Floor

Kanban Board in Garments Manufacturing Production Floor

What is Kanban? Kanban is a visual card or billboard; Japanese word which meaning Cards or board, a tool of lean manufacturing for visualization entire production teamwork to control production focusing on creating a production system more effective and efficient, focusing mainly in the production and logistics activities. Kanban is a visual system as ‘Signal card’ indicate what to do, items will put when needed, Kanban cards order necessary task, update with time and surely reduce wastage. In this article, you will have an idea of how kanban board in garments manufacturing production floor is used.

Kanban Board in Garments Manufacturing Production Floor

Types of Kanban System

Generally, two types of Kanbans or Kanban Cards used in the apparel industry:

Production Kanban

Production Kanban is the first step of Kanban implementation, production Kanban takes the place of standard production orders in material requirements planning (MRP) push.

Transportation Kanban

Transportation Kanban system is very important that carried on the trolley, containers that are associated with the transportation to move through the loop again.

Importance of Implementation Kanban Board in Apparel Industry

  1. Reduce idle time in a production process.
  2. Increase productivity, more effective and efficient production
  3. Visualize work and optimize the flow of the work
  4. Reduce WIP (Work in Process)
  5. Improve workflow
  6. Avoidance of over-production and limitation of stocks
  7. Higher availability of materials
  8. Reduce inventories
  9. Improve communication between management and operational staff

Garments Kanban Board Information Includes

  1. Backlog
  2. To do list
  3. Doing List/ work-in-process List
  4. Work completed List
  5. Plan list
  6. Lot name
  7. Process name

This content also have the answer of below points

  • Kanban system in Apparel manufacturing
  • Set up Kanban board in the production floor
  • Kanban board in sewing floor

If you have any confusion then please let me know.

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Fabrics Warehouse and Cutting Section Best Practices in Apparel Industry

Fabrics warehouse and Cutting Section Best Practices in Apparel Industry

Garments best practice in Fabrics area and Cutting section: A best practice is a methodology, technique or system that has been accepted as superior to any alternatives because it produces best results that because it has become a standard way of doing things. This article includes two sections manufacturing best practice of garments manufacturing factory, sections activities are Fabrics preparatory procedures up to cutting and cutting procedures before cutting. Hopefully, after reading this article you will have a good idea of Fabrics Warehouse and Cutting Section Best Practices in Apparel Industry.

Best Manufacturing Practice for Fabrics Preparatory Procedure in a Garments Factory

There are lots of work needs to be done before cutting, fabrics inspection, shrinkage- distortion, color- shade control etc. Here I am giving all procedure sequence wise in below.

A) Fabric Store

  • Space to keep a roll separately (E.g. Fabric roll on a rack)
  • Available space to keep head ends
  • Availability of pallets (suggested for plastic/non-wooden pallets) to keep fabrics roll
  • Good condition, ventilation store area, and keep a stack of fabric rolls prevent direct heat, sunlight/dust etc. & humidity
  • Fabric rolls are stored as per shade group base on mill packing list/maker after wash blanket
  • Uses of Bin card mentioning style & shade name in a roll stack
  • Reporting of fabric roll keeping by log book in a soft or hard copy

B) Fabric Inspection

  • Availability of Lightbox/ Lightroom (Requirement CWF- 100 FCL)
  • Availability & sufficient no of Inspection m/c. sewing m/c, defect display board, notice board
  • Availability of relaxation m/c. / area / racks
  • Record Fabric roll inspection report (covering packing lists from the supplier all shade groups in a blanket) & defect matrix

 C) Fabric Shade Group

  • Available of (2 sets) before wash & after wash Blanket preparation details and records
  • Proper size of shade blanket as per buyer requirement
  • Records & availability of color continuity card (after wash blanket)
  • Sufficient space for Blanket storage & easy excess

D) Shrinkage, Distortion, Skew test, CSV

  • Keeping records, test specimen & maintaining 100% shrinkage & distortion test procedures as per buyer Requirement for stretch fabric
  • Keeping records, test specimen & maintaining 30% shrinkage & distortion test procedures as per buyer Requirement for non-stretch fabric
  • Use of standard tools for marking & measuring shrinkage (AATCC 135) & distortion (AATCC 179 opt 1)
  • Maintaining conditioning & relaxation procedure before shrinkage measurement
  • Keep a record for skew test
  • Maintaining CSV / SCS check on 100%  fabric roll from packing list (non-denim)

E) Operations

  • 5S implementation
  • Sufficient manpower
  • Computer for mail communication & data entry
  • Sufficient sewing m/c for a blanket & shade band making
  • Notice, SOP & defect display board
  • Defect analysis & Pareto analysis

Cutting Best Practice

Cutting is the sensitive process in garments manufacturing. Garments measurement and sewing depend cutting accuracy. Here I am giving a checklist of a best cutting practice of apparel manufacturing, below data would help you to about cutting procedure best practice in apparel manufacturing.

Critical Path

  • Is the critical path system being followed?
  • Is there software used to create the critical path? (Provide the name of the software in the remarks column)
  • Is the pattern manipulation and marker ratio calculations done before Fabric is delivered?

Width Batching

  • Is the fabric width checked as per the A-Z manual for every roll?
  • Is the fabric width recorded and provided to the lay planning dept. with the shrinkage, shade and length reports?
  • Is the width batching report available?
  • Are new yield calculations done after the width batching? (Provide reports). Is the reason for the change in the yardage yield documented?

Length Confirmations

  • Are all the rolls checked for length and documented?
  • Is the fabric shortage addressed to the Purchasing Department?

Shrinkage and Shading

  • Are all the fabric rolls checked for the shading and records maintained?
  • Is the fabric shrinkage tested for each dye lot of the fabric and records maintained?
  • Is the A-Z manual fabric checking process followed for the shrinkage and shade checking?
  • Does the factory prepare an additional color continuity card?
  • Are the fabric shrinkage and shade SOP available and followed?

Fabric Relaxation

  • Is the fabric relaxed naturally and the relaxation time documented as per the customer manual?
  • Is the fabric relaxation historical data/information maintained and used for reference on actual relaxation for every type of fabric?
  • Is there a relaxation machine used for the fabric relaxation process?
  • Relaxation report available?
  • Are the relaxed fabric rolls placed on shelves with one relaxed roll per shelf?
  • Is the fabric relaxed for a minimum of 24 hours before cutting? (48 hours minimum for Lycra/Elastane fabrics)

Lay Planning

  • Are leftover fabrics calculated in the MCR (Material Consumption report)
  • Is the balanced fabric documented and used for accounting in case of re-ordering?
  • Is the lay checked and approved by authorized personnel from Quality and technical
  • Are the lays planned as small size and big size combination until you derive at a single size marker, if not what is the alternate process?
  • Does the lay planner take into account the fabric inspection report details like shrinkage and shading; and width batching report
  • Is the marker consumption report for the projected calculation of yardage yield (YY) per piece documented?
  • Is the over-consumption calculated, and recorded?
  • Does the merchandising/planning dept. evaluate the Material over consumption and replenishment report for any over-consumption of the fabric.
  • Are the reports documented and maintained for easy retrieval?

Cutting Room

  • Does the cutting room request the fabric based on the Marker consumption report? (MCR)
  • Are the fabrics issued based on the PO and the BOM/MCR from the fabric store?
  • Is the additional fabric requirement informed and approved by the merchandiser and store?
  • Are the materials over consumption and replenishment guideline referred, for guidelines on reporting and requesting additional fabrics?
  • Are the over consumptions recorded and documented for the root cause analysis, to determine the cost of failure?
  • Is fabric held in the cutting room near the cutting table placed in the A-frames or Tracks in the appropriate manner?
  • All tables are clean underneath and have no redundant fabrics under the table or in contact with the floor at any given time.
  • Documentation and reports available


  • Is there a spreading sheet used for every single layer in the cutting room?
  • Is the QA/Cutting Supervisor confirm, once the fabric is spread.
  • Is the visual fabric inspection done during spreading?
  • Are the separation papers used for the different colors in the same spread?
  • Is the spreading sheet maintained with all the details of the Roll of fabric to be used; and is the copy of the ticket that comes off the roll of fabric, attached to the spreading sheet.
  • Is marker Vs cut report prepared, to analyze the fabric consumption after cutting
  • Are spreading parameters set for the automated spreading machine
  • Is there a library of fabric tension for spreading available for future references?
  • Is the underlayer plain paper used for the manual cutting of the lay?
  • Is the perforated paper used for the automated cutting equipment of the lay?
  • Is end loss allowance of 1/2 inch (on either side) maintained in the lay during cutting?
  • Documentation and Reports available


  • Are the re-cuts documented and recorded for further calculation of actual yardage yield, and assigned correct reason?
  • Is the T2’s performance analyzer
  • Are faults/errors identified and reduced with corrective action plans?
  • Documentation and Reports available

Issuance of cut goods

  • Is there an inward/outward procedure and format for the cut panels issued to the sewing section?
  • Is the sewing section in-charge know that the order is complete in terms of cutting, printing, embossing, embroidery or any other processes involved before sewing with the document?
  • Does the sewing section in-charge sign on receipt of the cut quantities taking control of the order quantity?

Fabric Returns

  • Is the left-over fabric returned to the store and documented daily?
  • Is the left-over fabric put back in the store/inventory for carryover orders?
  • Documentation and Reports available

Fabric Usage

  • Does the cutting room calculate the final yardage yield based on total fabric usage?
  • Are the following reports involved in deciding the final yardage yield usage, Marker Consumption Report (MCR); Marker Vs Spreading Report; Spreading Sheet; Re-cut quantities?
  • Documentation and Reports available

Key Performance Indicators

  • Does the process of ordering, have specific guidelines and measurable?
  • Does the factory maintain the records for 24months once the order is shipped?
  • Are the factory cutting room performance and efficiency calculated and documented?
  • Is the actual yardage yield calculated after an order has been shipped?

This Content Also Refers to

  • Good Practice for Garments Fabrics warehouse
  • Best Practice for Fabrics cutting process in Garments
  • Benchmarking Garments Fabrics warehouse
  • Benchmarking Fabrics cutting section

Fabrics Warehouse and Cutting Section Best Practices in Apparel Industry

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Operation breakdown, SMV and Layout of Leggings

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Leggings

Leggings are tight fit bottom wear, typically preferred by the women but men can wear. Legging is high stretchable knitwear garments, wears with Kurti, very much comfortable, made by blended Lycra fabrics (Spandex). Leggings total sewing SMV is 4.64, 15 manpower needed approximately and 14 sewing machine will be needed. Here is the Operation breakdown, SMV and Layout of Leggings, hopefully, this will help you to know the SMV of Leggings.

Sewing Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Leggings Manufacturing

Total Manpower 15
Number of Operators 13 60% 113
Number of A.O.P 2 70% 131
Number of IRON 80% 150
Sl Operation Description SMV Manual/ M/c M/C OP/ AOP Balancing Tgt/Hr Tot.Tgt/Hr Var. Operation Request
1 Care label cut & attach 0.2 SNL 1 0.5 300 150 136
2 Front rise join with sticker match 0.25 4OL 1 0.5 240 120 108
3 Back rise join 0.22 4OL 1 0.5 273 136 134
4 Inseam join 0.45 4OL 2 2 133 267 267
5 Waist belt Tape & Elastic open give steam & cut 0.3 MNL 1 200 200 200
6 Elastic ring make & mark 0.3 SNL 1 1 200 200
7 West belt make & mark 0.35 SNL 1 2 171 343 343
8 Elastic tk with belt 0.4 SNL 1 1 150 150 150
9 Body mark & tape attach with belt 0.3 SNL 1 1 200 200 200
10 West belt attaches at the waist 0.6 4OL 2 2 100 200 200
11 Label attach 2 0.25 SNL 1 0.5 240 120 118
12 Leg Hem 0.45 FL 1 1 133 133 132
13 Crosspoint BTK 0.12 BT 1 0.5 500 250 249
Total SMV 4.64 Total MP   14.5          


1 SNL Single Needle Lock Stitch M/c 6
2 4OL 4 Thread Over Lock M/c 6
3 FL Flat Lock M/c 1
4 BT Bartack M/c 1

Operation Breakdown, SMV and Layout of Leggings

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Reports and Responsibilities of Garments Quality Department

Reports and Responsibilities of Garments Quality Department

Quality Reporting Responsibilities in the Apparel Industry: Garments quality controlling work throughout a garments factory, very sensitive work to maintain export garments quality.  Reporting is the first job of Garments quality department rather than working; need to maintain lots of documents as their working reference. This article has a list Reports and Responsibilities of Garments Quality Department as given in the following.

List of Quality Controlling Reports in Garment Factory

S/L Work Reporting List Responsible Person
1 Trims Inventory Store in charge
2 Trims inspection Store QI
3 Fabric  inventory Fabric  Store in charge
4 Sharp tools control log book Store in charge
5 Supplier packing list /invoice /Test report /chalan Store in charge /QC
6 Fabric :Maintain style/ shade /color /shrinkage wise put on the plate Store in charge /QC
Cutting  Quality Department
7 Fabric inspection Cutting QC/ QI
8 Shade band Cutting QC/ QI
9 Shade band list Cutting QC/ QI
10 Continuity card Cutting QC/ QI
11 Shrinkage  test (iron /wash) Cutting QC/ QI
12 Spreading quality control Cutting QC/ QI
13 Cutting quality control Cutting QC/ QI
14 Marker check Cutting  QI
15 Pattern check (top, bottom, middle )need to extra pattern Cutting  QI
16 100%pannel check/ Bundle check Cutting  QI
17 Relaxation report (Mesh,/knit/spandex fabric) Cutting  QI
18 Relaxation  report (mesh /spandex /knit fabric) Cutting  QI
FUSING Quality Control
20 Fusing record (Temperature, Time, Weight ) ( Daily two time ) Fusing operator
21 Bond strength   (Check by wash &machine )( Daily two time ) Fusing operator
22 Heat seal record (Daily two time ) Fusing operator
SEWING Quality Department
23 Machine maintenance ( Daily two time ) Two hours  QI
24 In process quality control system /7pcs /Traffic light system Two hours  QI
25 Process check  (process name defects name, date  s/b mention )  Process QI
26 Stitch monitoring Two hours  QI
27 End line inspection (Output table) mention process name defect name.  Output QI
28 Measurement report (every hour 3 pcs  ) Line QC
29 Box audit  report  (hourly audit ,re-check m/b re-audit ) Line QC
30 Inline quality control  (daily one time, check QNTY20/32 pcs Line QC
31 Quality goal /Defect analysis (daily /weekly /monthly ) Line QC
32 First production review  (submit  with sample )follow  pp comments ) Line QC
33 Weekly defects analysis  ( Corrective action plan) Line QC
34 Monthly defects analysis  ( Corrective action plan ) Line QC
35 Root cause analysis   (highest 3operation &3 defects ) Line QC /QAM/GM production /GM operation )
36 Broken needle control log (line wise &all broken needle m/b put log book ) Safety officer
37 Flag defect record ( found defect operator )  line wise report ) Maintain line chief
Finishing and Packing Department
38 Pull test  (Daily two times ) Two hours QI
39 First button &last button procedure (each new bobbin insert the machine  first button attached mockup )keep record individual) Button QI
40  Garments check by needle detector  machine (po wise ) Needle detector operator
41 9 point check (check machine every hour) Needle detector operator
42 100% visual audit (button, grommet, snap button, eyelet etc.) Button QI
43 Process check  inside inspection report Process QI
44 Process check  top side inspection report Process QI
45 Flag defect record  ( found defect iron man ) Get up QI
46 Get up check Measurement QI
47 Measurement  (100% chest, bottom, back/front length, sleeve length, Waist, inseam, leg opening  ) Hangtag QI
48 UPC label /hangtag. Get up QI
49 Re get up /iron audit Two hours QI
50 Two hours audit with measurement Carton QI
51 100%  Ratio check (put seal after complete ctn  ) Finishing QC
52 Day final with measurement Finishing QC
53 Defects record  ( daily /weekly ) Finishing QC
54 Reject register (mention style color/ size Q AM
55 Pre-final audit with carton no Finishing in charge
56 Carton weight and assortment check Finishing QI

Reports and Responsibilities of Garments Quality Department

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]om

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Garments Quality Check Points and Their Quality Control

Garments Quality Check Points and Their Quality Control

Garments QC/QA Check Points: There are four sections of garments quality controlling process, these can generate defects in manufacturing, sections are cutting, sewing, washing and finishing, and must be there some criteria check QC team for garments product quality. This article clearly showing quality controlling criteria of every quality checkpoints of a garments factory and simply described garments quality requirement. Hopefully, after reading this you will have a good idea of Garments Quality Check Points and Their Quality Control.

Garments Quality Check Points and Their Quality Control

 Section wise Garments Quality Check Points

  1. Cutting quality Check Points
  2. Sewing Quality Check Points
  3. Washing Quality Check Points
  4. Finishing Quality Check Points

Garments Quality Check Points and their Checking Criteria

Here given section wise quality checkpoint description for your better understanding as mentioned every work of garments quality control department.

Cutting Process Quality Check Point

  1. Fabric upside down: Make sure the fabric is not upside down.
  2. Fabric Skewing: A maximum skewing of 2 cm for the chest of 60 cm is acceptable, but not more. This defect can be solved by re-setting of the fabric at the fabric mill.
  3. Relaxation: Before cutting, knitted, elasticized woven fabrics should be suitably relaxed for around 12~24 hours or more, depending on the type of fabric. Relaxation is mandatory for stretch fabrics.
  4. The height of cutting pile: The higher the pile on the cutting table, the more chance the cut pieces are unequal in size. This can lead to size specification & fitting problems. Make sure the height is suitable for the type of fabric (usually 2~3 inches and never more than 5 inches).
  5. Numbering and bundling: Make sure the different parts are properly numbered to avoid shading and that this numbering can be easily removed after sewing is complete.
  6. Storing: Make sure the different parts are properly stored, for example, rolled, and not folded.

Sewing Process Quality Check Point

  1. Critical operations: Check all critical operations repeatedly (like the sewing of the neck- seam, armhole, cuff, placket etc.), so the operator gets the clear input of what is required and how to make it correctly before large quantities of garments are finished.
  2. Attaching label should be correct as per the size of 100% garments
  3. Checking bonding strength of interlining in the fusing process.
  4. Seam allowance:  check operators repeatedly on this point to make sure they use the correct seam allowance.
  5. Numbering: Make sure the sewing operatives keep parts with the same number together to avoid shading.
  6. Confirm Garments styling construction and measurement is correct as per approved sample.

Washing Process Quality Check Point

  1. Washing method: normal wash, stone wash, sand wash or enzyme wash.
  2. Bleaching method: stone bleach, garment bleach
  3. Any special process. E.g. over-dye after the washing process
  4. The color tone of the blue yarn
  5. The whiteness of the white yarn
  6. Resultant color tone: bluer or yellowish
  7. Rubbing effect: contrast on the blue yarn and white yarn
  8. Evenness on the blue and white parts
  9. Hand-feel
  10. Record the identification of the sealed sample, quality standards on the final inspection report to ensure QC check the bulk according to the correct standards.
  11. Tick and sign all quality standards as an indication of proper QC checking.
  12. QC should not release the shipment if they find the following major faults.
  13. Color out of the approved shade band
  14. Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 1″ on the garment zone above the knee
  15. Fabric flaws and washing marks in excess of 3″ on any part of the garment

Finishing Process Quality Check Point

  1. Button attaching and button
  2. Pressing
  3. Full Garments quality check
  4. Packing and carton

Button Attaching and Button

  • Snap button too loose / too strong
  • Snap button not closing properly / broken
  • Missing poly washer for snap buttons
  • Button coming off
  • Fabric not strong enough to hold the button
  • Mark from molding
  • Paint damaged
  • Rust
  • Text on button not straight
  • Wrong position / not in line with counterpart / incorrect spacing
  • Button shank missing when required
  • Buttonhole too big or too small
  • Buttonhole not clean / badly stitched/ losing shape / stitched with wrong thread quality
  • Spare button missing or put in the wrong position

Check Pressing

  • Shiny marks
  • Not pressed or improperly pressed
  • Should avoid the press and fold the pigment dyed fabrics before garment washing entirely. It is because it will leave a clearly visible mark on the garment after washing. After sewing, put the garments on a hanger until washing starts.

Full Garments Quality Check

  • Checking full garments workmanship defects
  • Measure 100% garments to assure fittings
  • Heat seal peeling off
  • Confirmation quality check of final garments product

Packing and Carton Quality Check

  • Correct ticketing and placement
  • Packing accuracy of quantity, assortment, and folding
  • Correct carton selection as per customer requirement
  • Packaging, sealing, binding and barcode checking

Final Inspection Quality Check Points

After completing carton, Garments buyer QC does a Final quality inspection, evaluate final product quality. Final Audit or inspection is the most important factor for a garments factory. Final Audit is the final judgment of product quality from the buyer, the inspection calibrates overall garments factory quality controlling. Without passing final inspection, garments cannot be shipped. A final inspection report is the quality certificate from garments buyer what give a certificate of a factory about their finished product quality that allows or reject to ship garments. There are specific quality checking points of a finished garments final audit, here I have given these in below.

Quality Inspection Criteria’s are of Final Audit

  1. Workmanship
  2. Appearance
  3. Measurement/Fittings
  4. Materials
  5. Accessories
  6. Finishing/Packing


  • Fusing
  • Open seam
  • Broken stitch
  • Miss/Skip Stitch
  • Mending
  • Seam grinning
  • SPI incorrect
  • Needle damage/cut/holes
  • Puckering/Twisting
  • Stripes/Plaid Mismatching
  • Stepping or Hi-low
  • Misaligned/Insecure Buttons
  • Crooked stitching
  • Raw edge
  • Looseness/Knots
  • Buttonhole
  • Incorrect tension
  • Main Label open/slanted
  • Contrast thread visible
  • Loop slanted


  • Loose/uncut thread
  • Dirt mark
  • Oil stain
  • Garment damp
  • Crushed
  • Pressing
  • Shinning
  • Wrinkle


  • Out of tolerance any measurement points


  • Body fabric way
  • Contrast fabric
  • Print/Dyeing Fault
  • Color Shading
  • Bald Patches
  • Holes or Cuts
  • Yarn Runs
  • Slubs
  • Color fly/ Foreign yarn


  • Thread/ Yarn
  • Main Label
  • Care Label
  • Zipper
  • Tapping/Capping
  • Screen print/Embroidery
  • Buttons/Snaps/Rivets
  • Velcro
  • Elastic


  • Assortment
  • Carton Marks
  • Polybag printing
  • Hangtag
  • Price ticket
  • Barcode
  • Carton Barcode

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Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam