Garments Pattern Making Based on Fabric Shrinkage

Garments Pattern Making Based on Fabric Shrinkage

A pattern is the base of garments manufacturing. The pattern set as per garments shrinkage and sewing allowance. Single or two/three sets of the pattern can be made for same garments lot. The only objective of creating a different pattern is to keep accurate measurement as per buyer requirement. Hope this article will give you a clear idea of how garments pattern making based on fabric shrinkage is done for ensuring measurement accuracy.

Garments Pattern Making Based on Fabric Shrinkage

Pattern Making Rules

Garments pattern is very sensitive to keep accurate garments fittings and measurement. First garments maker has to find out fabric shrinkage. Based on shrinkage garments manufacturer have to make the pattern. Certain rules are followed when shrinkage difference is >2%, >3% or >4% group rolls of similar shrinkage, different patterns must be made for a lot if shrinkage difference crosses the acceptable limit. Otherwise, a single pattern is made for a lot when shrinkage difference not crossed the certain limit.

You may also like our previous article on Pattern Making in Garments

Stages of Different Pattern Making in Same Lot of Garments

Group Shrinkage

Need to do proper shrinkage and keep record accordingly. After making the record, garments maker segregate the shrinkage per group and range like -2% to 8%, maker must need to make 2%-5% one group and 6%-8% another one group.

Make Group Pattern

As per the shrinkage group, the manufacturer makes a separate pattern with the group shrinkage and will put the pattern numbering like P1, P2, etc. The pattern group will depend on how many shrinkage groups they have been found on fabric. Also, need to maintain the fabric category to make the pattern per shrinkage group.

Before Wash Measurement Spec

Before wash measurement is complete garments measurement just before washing (if wash product). When the CAD section will adjust the “0” pattern per shrinkage  %  and will be identified by the numbering P1 or P2, per the shrinkage group the CAD section will make the before wash measurement spec to verify garments measurement in before wash stage. It sends to the sewing section to check the measurement.

Measure Garments in Sewing Stage

During sewing stage garments maker need to do 100% garments measurement as per the CAD section has given before wash spec and Quality Control (QC) Manager need to verify the report.

During sewing need corrective action to prevent the measurement problems

If found out of tolerance GMTS in Sewing in-process comparing with before wash spec, need to find out the reason of out of tolerance occurrence, to be taken preventive action and will be recorded in the file with measurement sheet.

Garments Pattern Making Based on Fabric Shrinkage .pdf

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

Flow Chart of Garments Cutting Section

Flow Chart of Garments Cutting Section

Before sewing, you have to cut fabrics parts by parts according to measurement and sewing allowance. The function of cutting fabrics in accordance with the sewing allowance and required measurements are done by the cutting section of the garments. Cutting is the first step basically we may find in garments making. When cutting started we can say that garments production is also started that means starting cutting also indicates the starting of production. Flow chart of garments cutting section is the interrelated sequence of the following.

Production order sheet => Pattern receive => Marker making => Fabric receive => Fabric spreading => Marker placing => Cutting => Sorting => Numbering and checking => Bundling => and finally Input to sewing.

Flow Chart of Garments Cutting Section

Flow Chart of Garments Cutting Section

Keep in mind that as the fabrics cutting is one of the crucial parts of the production you have to be more careful to ensure proper measurement. If you cut the fabrics into the wrong measurement then the production garment will be considered as defected items because you will be failed to produce according to the specified size or shape. It is a quality control department to check whether every process is maintained in a right way.

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)

Facebook: Amirul Islam Washim
E-mail: [email protected]

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Pattern Making in Garments

The pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments. The appearance and fit of garments are highly dependent on each process. In the development of a garment pattern making is one of the most important steps.

Pattern Making in Garments Depends on

  1. The skill of the person
  2. Technological Knowledge.
  3. Analysis of design
  4. Experience of garments making
pattern making in garments

Pattern Making Step

  • Block pattern or Basic block
  • Working or garment pattern

Block Pattern or Basic Block

Block pattern or basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style. It is produced according to the exact dimension of standard body measurement where no allowance is considered.

Block patterns are made in two ways

a) Flat method

b) Modeling

Flat method

In Flat method, the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing.

  • In technical drawing, the rule and application of the method of body measurement and its ratio depends on pattern maker.
  • This type of pattern can be made by computer. In this case, the program of a pattern making is stored in a computer disk.
  • This method actually comes from modeling method.
  • This is a fast pattern making method.


The modeling method is the primary and first method of pattern making. Till now this method is used widely in the apparel industry.

  • In modeling method, Block is made with the standard body measurement of the dummy is called Toile. Toile is worn on the body of the dummy to check fittings.
  • Then toil is worn out from the body of the dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper.
  • This method is the most efficient method of pattern making but required more time in this method.

Garments Pattern

  • On the basis of block pattern or basic block Garments pattern is made. Individual block pattern is drawn on hard paper or board paper.
  • Sewing allowance, trimming allowance, button whole allowance, dart, and pleat is considered. Individual patterns are made for individual parts of garments.
  • In the pattern, the grain line is showed by an arrow.
  • After drawing of pattern, the working pattern is separated from board paper by a knife.
  • Size and name of individual parts are written on every part.
  • Simple garments are made from the working pattern.

Written by

Engineer Sheikh Nurja

B.Sc engineer of textile

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