PP Meeting Requirements and Procedure in Apparel Industry
PP meeting is a very important part of Garments manufacturing process, a part of the pre-production process to be completed in the right time for smooth Garments manufacturing process. A process where buyer QC/Merchandiser are also involve in checking accuracy. Generally, PP meeting conducted by buyer QC, internal PP meeting by garments manufacturer before that, is a good practice to avoid the risk of failing, meeting location factory conference room or inspection room.
Factory
Quality Team Responsibility before PP Meeting
Assigned Quality controller receives all
approvals and records them on “PP
Meeting checklist”. QA also records expected date of receiving non-available
approvals and follows up accordingly with Production merchandiser.
The QA marks “NA” (not applicable) in case of
anything not being used for the particular style.
Need to do internal PP meeting by factory QA
manager with his QC and production before submitting sample for buyer QC PP
meeting.
PP Meeting
Activities
Fabrication &
Finish Issues
All
expected fabrication issues especially those highlighted by during fabric
inspection report & sample process.
Potential
production problems according to fabric behavior.
All cutting related issues to be highlighted –fabric
relaxation, spreading elongation and tension, panel checking and records
measurements variation, plaid matching, pattern adjustment etc.
Grading of pocket, panels, inserts, notches etc.
Embellishment Issues
All potential issues
in application of embellishment i.e. print, embroidery, rhinestone, heat transfer label, decorative patches etc. are discussed.
Construction and
Stitching Issues
Sample
comments regarding sewing issues and every operation of concerned style is
discussed.
Emphasis
is on critical operations. All out of routine operations are discussed with
sampling master which finalized in vendor pre-production meeting.
Difficult
operations are highlighted and displayed for every style and doing risk
analysis report.
Difficult
operations checklist is maintained and verified during production.
Finishing Issues
All
expected finishing and packing issues to be highlighted & discussed with
vendor. This includes garment shape, pressing, folding, packing etc.
Pressing,
measuring, QA check, folding & packing instructions are placed and clearly
demonstrated to ensure PDM instructions are properly followed.
Factory
specs men are advised how to measure before pressing & after pressing &
keep records.
Buyer QC
emphasizes on vendor pre-production meeting points during inline inspections.
Sweater and Lingerie: Two Growing Subsections of RMG Sector of Bangladesh
Sweater – A growing sub-section of RMG sector in Bangladesh: Sweater production and export is the promising subsection of Bangladesh RMG sector. As per a report from the Dhaka Tribune, With the technological up-gradation of this sector, it contributes to the western business market expanding with fulfilling winter season demand. During an interview with the Dhaka Tribune, Mohammed Nasir, Vice President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) said that “Sweater manufacturers upgrade their machinaries from manual to automatic, for this reason productivity of workers and overall factory production increases.” Due to global climate change, winter & summer become two major seasons. Winter becomes a season of fashion & styles. In this regard, the sweater becomes trendy with fashionable accessories &fusion design. As per the report of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in the fiscal year 2017-2018, Bangladesh earned from sweat export worth $3.67 billion, whereas in the fiscal year 2016-2017 it was $3.37 billion, a rise of 9.22% within a year. This sector has a share of 12% to the total RMG exports of $30.61 billion of the fiscal year 2017-2018. People from this industry hope that by 2021 this sector annual worth will be $8 billion.
Sweater Export Growth of Bangladesh
A significant number of Bangladeshi sweater factories have enhanced their production capacity or set up new manufacturing units to cope with the growing demand for sweaters from global apparel buyers. SQ, Dragon, Tupa, Starlight and Diganta Sweaters are some of the major sweater manufacturing in Bangladesh, expanded their capacity at least once recently. Walmart, Marks, and Spencer (M&S), GAP, Tesco, H&M, JC Penney, Zara etc. are the top foreign buyers of Bangladesh sweater section.
Having
a look over the export growth of Bangladesh Sweater section, it has seen that
it obtained an improvement steps of stair. Though we have same complicacy of
port & logistics system, on contrary we have a goodwill of our quality
& trendy sweater products. Meanwhile competition Chinas product diversification
is another chance for our sweater section to grab global orders. Saif Ahmed, deputy
general manager of Mohammadi Group, which exports nearly three million pieces
of sweater in a year, said that work orders shift from China to Bangladesh is
another factor for the higher shipment. Hopefully in near future this section
will lead as like as knit or woven section.
Lingerie Export of RMG from Bangladesh
Lingerie: Another growing sub-section
of RMG sector in Bangladesh: Once upon a time, lingerie
was an intangible part of fashion, but with the change of fashion & style
it becomes a part of fashion & fashion industry. Bangladesh lingerie
industry also developing with times after steeps in global market from 2008. As
per International Trade Centre (ITC) report, global lingerie export worth is
around $23 billion. China leads the market of lingerie exporting countries with
37%share, while Hong Kong and Sri Lanka leads as second and third with 8.78%
and 5.65% of worth respectively. Bangladesh is the 4th largest lingerie
exporter with 5.23% share in the global market. Vietnam, India, France, Germany,
Cambodia, and the Netherlands are also in the list. Top foreign buyers of
Bangladesh lingerie items are H&M, Hunkemöller, Women’secret, Ostin, Ariela-Alpha.,
M&S, Victoria’s Secret etc. Asif Zahir, director of Ananta Group said that,
“Lingerie is an upcoming sector, this is a big market.”
Lingerie Export Growth of Bangladesh
As per the Apparel story, among a wide variety of intimate apparel items, bra dominates global market with more than half of the total share of worthwhile briefs represent around 33% and corsetry 10%. According to Analysts of Technavio, an international research company, within 2021 global lingerie market will grow at a CAGR of 4.30%. After realizing the global market trend, so many apparel icons of Bangladesh expanded their lingerie unit or established new unit. Top lingerie item exported from Bangladesh are: bra, penty, corset, shapewear, girdle, swimsuits and braces. Ms. Sandamali, Head of Marketing of SQ Birichina, said that “Lingerie manufacturing is a critical task, so not all are interested in this business keeping the number of players limited in the market, thus it gives advantages to the manufactures in terms of competition. While buyers generally tend to switch from one supplier to another on price issue in case of basic apparel items, such scene is less likely in undergarment business because factories skilled and equipped to manufacture this complex product are not too many in the market.” In the fiscal year 2017-18, the export worth of lingerie items – women’s innerwear and nightwear reached $1.15 billion, the rise of 7.84%from the previous fiscal year 2016-17 worth $1.07. As per the financial express, Md Syful Alam, manager, merchandising and marketing, Yunusco Bangladesh Ltd said that “Lingerie is a complicated and technical product that needs a sophisticated design with right fabric and tailoring to yield a good and satisfactory fit”. ” This is the reason why we require the items IE-Industrial Engineering in Garments,” he added.
Lingerie Products Exported from Bangladesh
As
per, Apparel Resources News-Desk, M Ghulam Faruq, Chairman of SQ Birichina,
said that, “To be honest, Bangladesh is still not doing much to produce the premium
segment of lingerie items.” He thinks that lingerie is an item that needs continuous
changing of fashion with taste change. “You need continuous innovation in
fabric design and product design to stay competitive in the lingerie market. It
is a difficult business,” he quoted. Manufacturer starts investing on this
growing section of RMG sector in Bangladesh. Bangladesh need strong R&D as
well as design & innovation team for the development of this sector. In
coming future, it will be indeed a great sector of GDP earning as like as knit,
woven or denim.
A QC file is quality control file in garments manufacturing also known as Trim Card or Garments swatch card, have all items what used in garments, Fabrics-trims for specific color and style, instruct what color and code number thread/label/zipper will be used for specific style and color. A trim card help Garments QC and production team using correct fabrics and trims in every style what exact fabrics and trims want garments buyer, consider as an important document. Generally store QC/ merchandiser make trim card, approve by buying house merchandiser. Factory merchandiser is responsible for on time QC file making, taking approval from buying house and delivering to production department. A QC file is such an important part in garments manufacturing, size set sample cannot be cut without its approval from buying house.
A complete QC file includes; trim card, PDM and PO sheet, documents for QC team what needed to attach with garments, operational requirements given in PDM with specific product sketch. Without the QC file, garments quality team cannot perform their job perfectly.
Uses of Trim Card in Garments
Store– to check trims and accessories by
store QC after in-housed in store
Sewing– to check attaching sewing trims
and accessories when production running in line
Finishing– to check finishing accessories
weather attaching correct or not
Final inspection Room– Buyer QC checks
whole garments items with trim card.
Heat Transfer Operation
and Guidelines of Garments Manufacturing
Heat Seal Label: In garments manufacturing it’s called heat seal or heat transfer label which shows the company’s brand logo or other important messages. Heat seal label is very attractive to a customer so its quality should be first class and label attaching process is very sensitive. Label attach by pressure and heat that’s why it’s called heat transfer Label. In this article we will have detail discussion of Heat Transfer Operation and Guidelines of Garments Manufacturing.
Parameters Influence the Fastness of Heat Transfers
Temperature
Pressure
Time
Design / placement of artwork
Quality of glue
Work requirement before and after
heat transfer operation
Guidelines for Heat Transfers
Storage of Heat Transfer Label
Heat
Transfer must be stored in a cool and dry place, away from direct sunlight below
24 C (75 F) and humidity below 70 %.
As
all heat transfers have a shelf life, it is recommended to use heat seal
transfer within 12 months from the date of production.
Requirements of the Application
Equipment / Heat Transfer Presses
Only automatic pneumatic machines which are
able to apply transfers piece by piece must be used.
Roller transfer press machines and manual presses are not
accepted, as they cannot guarantee correct and consistent application.
Heat
Transfer Presses must have the following features:
Pneumatically
operated with adjustable time, temperature and pressure.
Digital
microprocessor controller for time and temperature accuracy.
Fingertip
controlled operation and programmable print settings.
Digital
timer, adjustable which shows time countdown on readout, beeps after elapsed
time, and resets when handle is raised.
Consistent,
fully adjustable pneumatically pressure control, with pressure range of at
least 0 – 7 bar (0 – 100 psi / 0 – 7 kg / cm2)
Working
temperature range of at least 70 – 230 C (160 – 455 F)
Display
Time Range of at least 0 – 180 seconds
Head
plate should be made of metal and Teflon coated to prevent soiling which could
contaminate the garments.
Base
plate must be made of silicon rubber or can be a fleece platform with
sufficient resilience to ensure close alignment with the upper heat press
platen. A fleece platform is recommended to use for the application of 3
dimensional heat transfer.
Platen
size should be at least 38 x 38 cm (15” x 15 “)
Plate
should be bigger than artwork.
Machine Height
Heat
transfer presses must be adjusted in a way that the operator has an
unobstructed view of the application area and is able to quickly identify any
problems.
Calibration of the Heat Transfer
Presses
H/T machine
should be calibrated daily to obtain a reliable and consistent result.
Required Tools Calibration of the
Heat Transfer Presses
Thermocouple or Thermo-labels
A Stop watch, Cleaning cloth, Machine Calibration Check Log
Machine Inspection
Head
and base plates of the heat transfer presses must be inspected for damage &
contamination. The plates must be clean and smooth without any adhesive
residue.
The
rubber base plates must be replaced, if it becomes distorted or hard.
Heat Sealing Machine Calibration
Check
Temperature,
Pressure and Time must be controlled and documented at a style level.
Temperature Check
To ensure
that the heat is allocated evenly across the platen and the temperature meter
(input temperature) matches the actual output temperature.
Start the machine and set the Temperature at 160 C, time 30 seconds and Pressure at 3 bar (45 PSI).
Place 5 Thermo-label set onto the base plate at the upper right, upper left, center, lower left and lower right position.
Swing the machine onto the position and run a press cycle with time of 30 seconds.
Remove the thermos-labels and review the darkened labels. Each darkened label represents a temperature that the equipment successfully reached.
Record the highest temperature reached for each location in the Heat Transfer Machine Calibration Check Log.
Instead of Thermo-labels, also a Thermocouple can be used to check the temperature.
A temperature tolerance of +/- 3 C is acceptable.
Contact the manufacturer for service if the equipment failed.
The use of a
digital temperature control is recommended to have an accurate temperature
information.
Pressure Balance Check
Test the
pressure between the upper and lower plate of the machine
Place
4 paper strips in same size on top of the base plate.
Activate
the machine to press the strips in between
Pull
the strips sideward with equivalent strength to feel the pressure.
In
case the pressure is uneven and strip pulled out, replace the whole silicon or
fleece platform or contact the manufacturer for checking.
The use of pneumatic
pressure is recommended to give a stable pressure.
Time Check
Set
the time of the machine to 30 seconds.
Put
the machine into position and press the start buttons & at the same time
start the stopwatch.
Measure
the time for the machine to carry out its cycle.
Record
the time in the calibration log and repeat until 5 cycles are completed.
Calculate
the average and compare log and compare the value to 30 seconds.
The
result should be +/- 0.5 seconds
If
outside this, contact the press manufacturer to reset the timer.
Record
the result in the Heat Transfer Calibration Check Log.
Time should
be calculated from the moment of contact between application head and heat
transfer.
Heat Seal Transfer Application Procedure and Maintenance Operation Check
Before any
operation refer to the heat transfer specifications from the supplier for
detailed application directions i.e. Time & Peel Instruction.
Make
sure that the machine has been calibrated before operation start.
Make
sure that the press platens are clean and free of any residue.
Start
the machine and set the temperature, pressure and time which are given by the
Heat Seal Transfer supplier application instructions. Allow correct time to
heat for newly start machine (morning and after breaks) before bulk production.
Put
the fabric panel over the base plate and place the heat transfer on the desired
location of the panel.
Make
sure that the fabric is smooth but not stretched tight.
Cover
a release paper on top of the fabric to avoid direct contact of the heat platen
with the fabric.
Activate
the press for one application cycle.
Some
special heat transfer qualities require a second heat pressing process on the
reverse side of the fabric. It is crucial to follow exactly the Heat Transfer
application instructions.
Remove
the fabric panel from the press and peel off the transparent backing paper as
per the application instructions either immediately while the transfer is still
hot or after cooling down.
Do
not stack panels until they have fully cooled.
Heat
Transfer machines must be checked every 2 hours during print application for
correct temperature, pressure and time.
Different
positions of the application platform, middle and outer edges should be
checked. Result must be documented at the Heat Transfer Application Check Log
and displayed at the machine.
Heat Transfer Quality Tests Prior to Production
Development Stage
All heat
transfer must be applied and tested on the intended bulk quality. This is to
ensure that the die migration, strength of attachment, color change/staining, damage/defects
and elasticity can be correctly assessing.
Sample Wash Test
Heat
transfer prints on samples must be applied according to the given application
instruction. Garment supplier must wash one sample at 40 C (Tumble Dry) to
determine problems at early stage. In case the heat transfer on the washed
garments shows ay negative appearance regarding color change or peel off,
garment supplier must inform heat transfer supplier and immediately discuss
further actions. The washed sample and wash test report must be archived by the
garment maker and keep for two seasons.
Heat Transfer Supplier Quality Test on Bulk Fabric
As soon as
the bulk fabric is available in the factory, garment supplier must send one
yard in darkest fabric color to the Heat Seal Transfer supplier for testing.
In case
fabrics are delayed, it is the responsibility of the garment maker to inform
the Heat Transfer supplier about the fabric code. In that case, the Heat
Transfer supplier can arrange the fabric directly from the fabric supplier.
The heat transfer supplier must test on the bulk fabric to identify and confirm the correct application process. Once the washing tests, colour fastness, and migration tests are PASSED, the heat transfer supplier must inform the garment maker supplier about the recommended application instruction.
Garment Supplier Quality test on Bulk Fabric
As soon as the garment supplier receives the confirmed application instruction from the Heat Transfer supplier, garment supplier must apply for the transfer on the bulk fabric in all colorways and arrange the following quality checks.
10 times washing cycle at 40 C tumble dry
Color migration test (applied on polyester fabrics)
Hand Stretch Test to check the peeling off, cracking problems, removing of application.
The tests
must be done on all heat transfer machines which are intended to be used for
production. All quality tests must be done after samples are cooled down for at
least 24 hours after application. The washing test can be done by the garment
supplier if accredited by Buyer. Test can be done by a laboratory which is
accredited by Buyer.
In case one
of the above test fails, garment supplier must notify immediately the
respective heat transfer supplier for further action to solve the problem. The
original pass test reports and print swatches (before and after washing) must be available as reference
sample at the respective machine print production.
Heat Transfer Quality Check on Printed Panels
100% quality
check of the printed panels.
Before
quality check, allow printed panels to cool down.
Check
all edges and corners for solid bond
Check
melting of glue
Check
for color staining / bleeding on the test samples.
Report
any print defects like cracking or peeling-off problems.
Check
bulk output every 2 hours
If you have any confusion then please let us know, we will discuss further.
‘Layout’ is simply the orientation of product or process flow. From our day to day life it has so many significant impacts. In the RMG sector, every section has a specific kind of layout system as per work standard. Garments finishing is the last stage among top three stages (Cutting>Sewing>Finishing). Whether it is knit, denim, woven, sweater or lingerie, finishing unit has some style of line layout as per company or space or product. This is called conventional way of Finishing layout, which is widely used. But this conventional system reduces finishing efficiency. As finishing efficiency has direct impact on CMT cost (Cut, Make & Trim), now it’s time to reshape our layout from conventional to ‘Rail-line layout’ system. In this article, it will be discussed about rail-line layout system, how to implement it & its advantages for garments finishing unit. Though we are going to discuss about finishing layout system, you can implement this kind of layout system in your sewing floor also.
What is Conventional Layout System and Rail-Line Layout System?
Conventional layout system is the
layout system which we mostly use in our finishing floor. We have fixed
finishing lines of fixed length & width with aisles among them. We put Trimmer
(Manual or auto), specification checker, visual checker, iron man, keep
operator for trims & accessories adding, Final checkup, folding (Manual or
auto), wrapping & packing etc.
On contrary, rail-line layout system contains all the process from above, same manpower, same space, just need a rail line system with hanger. This rail-line may be a hollow steel or plastic pipe hanging up little bit arch where hanger can be moved easily. Or it may be a moving conveyor with hanging garments attachment. A Conveyor system is used for sewing line mainly.
Conventional Layout Vs Rail Line Layout System of Garments Finishing Unit
Top view of Rail-line layout system for garments finishing (Considering Woven pant finishing layout)
Structure of RailLine Layout System
Layout
starts at the point of hanger box keeping table, yellow marked. On same side,
there is input rack or trolley. From there Garments loader will bring &
hang garments in hanger to start the flow. You can see turning we mention 0.5
manpower. That means if you make the rail-line layout system in your floor such
a way that two parallel lines share side by side input point; then one person
can be used for two lines for garments turning. We keep this turning in
finishing line to do manpower optimization. But in conventional way we use
turning helper in sewing & most of the case use one person.
Another
best use of this layout is adding accessories in finishing line. Here button
attach shown in finishing line. By this way hook & bar, buckle, snap button
can be attached in finishing to avoid destruction or breakage while
transportation or washing. Garments loader will flow the hanger to the assistant
operator for button positioning (It may be avoided as per garments type or
requirement); after that button attach operator will do his/her work while
keeping the garments in hanger. Then next operation of loop cutting followed by
tack & wrapping operation of care label, as per product requirement.
Followed
by tread trimming operation, there were some space for garments hanging as
input for thread trimmer helper. Then comes inside quality check. It may be
subdivided into front or back part or left or right side inside QC. There will
be defect trolley keeping them segregated with different types of defective
product. This types of layout system strongly avoids backward flow. It need to
keep defective product stored, after a fixed time interval it will be collected
& fixed by line supervisor, QC supervisor or line manager with necessary
remedies.
If
it needs dust cleaning then full garments will be open from hanger, clean, turn
& hang it to the line. In this section side stand can be kept to keep
defective garments if found. Then pass it through rail-line to topside thread
trimmer. Number of topside thread trimmer is less than inside thread trimmer.
After that workstation of topside thread trimmer with defect stand or trolley.
After that garments pocket cleaning.
It
comes ironing operation now. There will be waist side press, side press, crease
press etc. as per product requirements. It is better to keep one or two defect
stand. There will be iron quality checker with segregated defect rack or
trolley followed by measurement QC.
It’s
time to add necessary trims, stickers etc. as per requirements. After that
audit table to check final product.
Then
comes folding, wrapping or packing table as per product requirements. In this
section, manpower can be shared with another line. By following this layout
system, there will be much open space to keep line wise finishing rack, trims
& accessories keeping rack etc.
Advantages of Rail-Line Layout of Garments Finishing Unit
Optimal manpower
Disciplined workplace
No crease in garments
Proper utilization of space
No dust from excessive hand touch
Lean Management in Finishing line
Limitations of Rail-Line Layout of Garments Finishing Unit
Cannot be useful for short length product like
tank top or lingerie
Improper line layout may cause improper process
management
Bad quality hanger or mishandling can cause
defective products
We need improvement in every
section of garments unit. For achieving this, it is necessary to start now with
slow but continuous improvement. Though there are some limitations of this
layout system, why not try a proto-type of one line in your finishing unit? With
proper plan & set-up system it is easy to implement. In the long run you
will get the advantages. There are so many renown buyers who want this kind of
layout system for sewing & finishing unit. For example, Walmart, Levis,
hagger etc. buyer have some pre-condition before order placement to have this
kind of layout system for their quality products. Hopefully very soon we will
adopt this layout orientation for our sewing & finishing product not only
for quality product but also for following lean management.
A production
general manager (GM) is a person, who is Head of manufacturing, ultimate
responsible person for productivity, operation and operational staff
management. Most respected person in garments factory because of having control
on whole factory manufacturing process. He is reporting boss of all production
managers and staff. GM, DGM, AGM or head of production whatever designation he
has (based on experience) works as general manger to handle whole production
department to control store, cutting, sewing and finishing. Most of the times
he is highest paid employee of his factory such an important person production
GM is. He is the person who can communicate with top management (factory owner)
for production and production related employee’s appointment and promotion
issue. This is the toughest and most important post for garments factory,
ultimate responsible person for company’s profit and loss. This article is all
about job responsibilities of a Garments Production general manager (GM).
Job Responsibilities of Production AGM in Apparel Industry
Job Titles of Garments Production Head
Though
different designations (vary factory wise) have seen in apparel industry, their
job responsibilities are same.
Production/operation AGM
Production/operation DGM
Production/operation GM
Head of manufacturing
Head of production/operation
Reporting
Authority
They report to Top management like CEO (Chief executive
officer), COO (Chief operating officer), MD, DMD, Chairman, and Vice-chairman
Skills and Qualities of Garments Production Head
Good leadership from mid-level to
lower level
Taking calculate risk
Quick decision making skill in any
situation.
Should be technically sound
Able to understand any fancy and critical
product producing
Good judgment and compromise willing
person
Well-disciplined and productivity
focused.
Problem solver of all technical issue
Represents the whole factory well
Production GM/DGM/AGM Job Responsibilities of Garments Manufacturing
Responsible for daily production and work to
achieve daily production target with buyer required quality standard
Responsible for operation and operational staff
control and management.
Work for 100% capacity utilization and waste
reduction
Manage all task for smooth production , smooth
final inspection pass and on time shipment
Coordinate all department for smooth Garments
manufacturing
Closely monitor sewing and finishing getting
best possible output and giving direction in floor.
Setup sewing line, check consumption, costing
and inventory.
Strictly follow up hourly production and work
for increasing
Lead all production staff from the front and
having good command on them.
Ensure complete task to make finished goods from
raw materials.
Communicate always with merchandising team and
solve every production related issues involved merchandising.
Achieve maximum production by lowest cost
Appointing and interviewing all production staff
and their salary fixation.
Guide IE team for increasing production
Giving feedback to garments Buyer and Buyer QC
Communicate with top management directly when
need in any issues of his garments factory.
If you any more job list than above list, please don’t
hesitate to write in the comment box.
The economy of Bangladesh is moving forward with the help
of different industrial contributions. Ready Made Garments (RMG) is one of the
core contributor where our garments business is growing because of lower labor
cost and other operational cost. In Bangladesh, RMG sector creating millions of
people’s employment over the year. Although labor is cheap here but government
time to time change the worker’s salary structure to ensure right wage payment.
So that labor unrest can be avoided. This article is all about whether are we
focusing on wages increment and efficiency improvement equally or not?
Wages is the amount of remuneration a worker get for his/her service. This is actually the monetary value of service. Efficiency defined as ‘’The comparison of what is actually produced or performed with what can be achieved with the same consumption of resources (Men, Machine, Raw Materials etc.)’’In 1936 payment wages act was established under which it is necessary to have defined wages & min wages for any kind of services. In 1958, the first wages board was set up by East Pakistan Government under the Minimum Wages Act of 1957. Then ordinance of minimum wages act was published in 1961. Before liberation war in 1969, a commission was set up which lead by Air Vice Marshall Nur Khan, fixed minimum wage of 115 Taka. After liberation war in 1971, public & private sector minimum wages fixed by different commissions & considering related factors. Periodically in 1973, 1977, 1985, 1991, 1998, 2005 public sector min wages fixed by government. At first, the minimum wages board prepared a draft wage scale for 38 private sectors in 2001 & was finalized in 2004 keeping RMG sector in dark.
Are We Focusing on Wages Increment and Efficiency Improvement Equally
In 2006, Bangladesh Institute of Labor Studies (BILS) & Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) combinedly demanded a minimum wage for the RMG sector as gazette act from the government. For the first time, a wage structure for RMG workers was published keeping 7 grading positions. Minimum monthly wages of 7th grade was determined as 1662.50 Tk. Trainee worker was supposed to get an allowance of 1200 taka/month. The main purpose of adopting national minimum wages is to support the weak labors (mainly unskilled, female, physically challenged) who cannot stand for their basic rights. In 2010, minimum wages became 3000 Taka for a month. After that in 2013, new wage gazette was published. The 7th-grade worker got a minimum wage of 5300 Tk. In 2018 gazette it became fixed with 8000 takas with 51% maximum increment. A correction of recent salary structure published as gazette recently. Below some statistical data of salary increment in Garments sector:
Gross Salary Increment Amount and Percent of Bangladeshi Workers
Most of the garments factories of Bangladesh runs with
low efficiency. Productivity & efficiency is not increasing in accordance with salary increment. Recently
Skills for Employment Investment Program (SEIP) starts with the help of finance
ministry of Bangladesh. Likewise, there should be training & development
program from government,
organization & buyer. Some reputed foreign buyer already starts their
efficiency improvements program
in respective factories. The average efficiency of RMG sector of Bangladesh is
nearly 50% which is lower
than competitors. Walmart, H&M, Levi’s etc. buyer successfully running
their efficiency improvement programs in the factories. Along with these, individual
factory improvements program is necessary. Hope our garments sector will focus on parallel improvement of
efficiency along with wages increment.
The effect of digitalization is everywhere, in apparel
industry different electronic devices are used to collect information, keep
records and also use these records to increase the operational efficiency.
Because of operational benefit, in garments and stores you may find that people
are using it and it gives them operational advantage. In this article you will
know about scan and pack system in apparel industry and what are the advantages
we can get. You will also see the process of scan and packing system.
Scan and Pack System in Apparel Industry
What is Scan and Pack System?
Scan and pack system is an Electronic
Data Interchange (EDI) system, tag/sticker barcode scanning uses on Garments product
SKU information and customer order details to complete the scan packing
requirements for retailers.
Advantages of Scan and Pack System in Garments Manufacturing
Remove packing error and keep accurate pack SKU
Save time and cost, increase work efficiency
Auto-generating packing list
Auto-generating case label
Add value to the customer
Scan and Packing Process
Main Objectives for scan and pack system is to keep packing accuracy, giving the right units of shipping carton to the customer and saving time. Every Garment will be scan by barcode scanner before packing. If any garment barcode can’t read by a scanner, GMTS will put away, marking unable to pack, for example, if there a carton of 20 pcs solid SKU, after completing the scan of every pcs, GMTS to be pack immediately. After completing 20 pcs scan, the carton will be closed. After completing every carton, scanner reset to count every GMTS for the individual carton to keep accurate solid SKU. By this way, no need to count GMTS to keep the right amount of stock keeping unit in any carton. By this way, time will save.
The Scenario of Bangladesh Woven Garments Sector and SWOT Analysis
Once upon a time, the woven sector was the most leading RMG sector in Bangladesh. With growing trend knit & denim also reaches the top floor that all of them are competing with each other. In this article, we will share with you the current scenario of Bangladesh Woven Garments Sector and SWOT Analysis.In the fiscal year 2017 to 2018, the export value of the woven product was 50.39% which was 15426.25 million $ of total worth. But in recent dependency on imported fabrics & lack of proper policy on energy supply have a negative impact on the competitiveness of Bangladesh’s woven garment in the global market. The woven sector had seen negative growth in major export destinations including Germany and the US. There needs new investment & backward linkage, technological improvements, availability of modern types of machinery, a wide variety of products etc.
During an interview with the Dhaka Tribune, BGMEA senior vice president, Faruque Hassan told that “woven products manufacturers are highly dependent on import for fabrics, which costs more. That’s why woven garments export is experiencing slower growth and it is also losing its strength in the world export market. We do not have manmade fiber, polyester, and petrochemical, which we must import. We will be competitive if we can meet the demand from our local sources,” he quoted. “Stakeholders are investing to upgrade machinery for value addition, this will increase the confidence of the buyer and they will also place the orders for higher end woven products in Bangladesh “he also added to his view. It takes about 35 days to ship goods to the US from Bangladesh, indeed a long time. On contrary, China takes 20 days and Turkey takes15 days. This is another big reason for losing global market. There is a demand of approximately three billion meters of woven fabric in a year. a local mill can produce around 45 million meters fabric which is around 14-15%, a less portion of the demand. Every year the country is investing almost 4 billion % to import fabric for making a woven product. There is huge demand and supply conflict. Woven sector is fighting to overcome all the obstacles & making its garments on global field.
Top Foreign Buyer of Bangladesh Woven Garments Industry
Brand name
Country
H & M
Sweden
Puma
Germany
Nike
USA
WalMart
USA
Levi’s
USA
Gap
USA
PVH
USA
New Yorker
Germany
Sainsbury
UK
Quick silver
Australia
Haggar
USA
C&A
Belgium
Timberland
USA
Colince
UK
M & S
UK
Linmark
Japan
Salomon
France
Red Cap
Sweden
L.L. BEAN INC.
USA
Diesel
UAE
LANDS’ END INC.
USA
Lindex
Japan
Granville
Australia
Decathlon
France
VF Asia
USA
SWOT Analysis of Bangladesh Woven Garments Sector
Strength of Woven Garments Sector of Bangladesh
Positive image as top leading global
brands expanded business
Local trims & accessories availability
Inhouse washing, wrinkle free units
Adequate machines & spare parts maintenance
facility
Easier to use new methods &
technologies than knit
Presence of local & global experts
Demand of woven products locally &
globally
Own hand loom & hometex section
Eco friendly & green factories
Establishment of multinational companies
attracts foreign buyers
Weakness of Woven Garments Sector of Bangladesh
Lack of local fabric supplier&
import dependency
Lack of investment in backward linkage
Absence of value addition and modern
technology
Can’t compete in regards of short lead
time
Lack of innovation as per fashion &
trend
Cost of utility & natural gas
increases
Recent salary increments of garments worker
Lack of international standard local
experts& business professionals
Local designers are not trained &
can’t make optimized cost product design
Giving less attention in woven sector
than knit or denim
Opportunities of Woven Garments Sector of Bangladesh
Open costing facility among competitors
based on cost & quality
Ease of communication with foreign
buyers
Easier quality approval policy
Larger demand of woven clothing, bags,
fashion accessories etc.
Foreign buyer specific design or trendy products
Government recent tax reduction for
apparel sector
Presence of trade analysis &
research institution
Comparatively less product variety than
knit to make fusion
Availability of local trims & accessories
factories
Kneeling of neighbor countries RMG sector
Threats of Woven Garments Sector of Bangladesh
China & Turkey attracting buyer by their short lead time shipment
E-buy shop & retail store with custom made products
Global retailer lower price offer because of grading product systems
Corruption & other anti-social activities lead foreigner to source any others
Product variety & demand of fancy items fulfilled by competitors
Neighbor countries established attractive infrastructural facilities
Dependency of mother buyers of specific region
Competitors producing variety of fabric & fabric mixed products
India & Myanmar focusing on expanding their global market
Increase of rich people number may have negative impact
Fishbone Analysis of Woven Garments Export Falling Behind
Fishbone
analysis is a cause and effect diagram, a diagram with list
of causes behind specific reason. Here I made a fishbone analysis of Woven
Garments export falling behind of Bangladesh; Hope this fishbone diagram will
clear your concept and would help you to work on reducing problem of woven
sector.
Costing of Knit Garments: During the consumption, it is good practice to use the measurement of middle size for calculation or the size which have most of the quantity. For example, If the style has 6 sizes then better to use size number 04 for consumption. Here we will show you the calculation consumption for the size “L”.
Costing of Knit Garments
Body length of the garments in cm. Say it is – 73 cm
Sleeve length of the garments in cm. Say it is – 19.5 cm
Approximate stitching allowance at body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem joint (in cm). Say it is – 10 cm
Chest width (1/2) in cm. Say it is – 52 cm
Approximate stitching allowance at each facet seam (in cm). Say it is – 4 cm
Approximate fabric wastage in various stage. Say it is – 10%
In this regard, fabric wastage depends on how many additional elements the garments have, which may change in any time. When there is rotary print in garments or enzyme stone wash than the amount of fabric wastage will be more than the normal level of wastage.
Knit Garments Costing Formula
What need to know or do before start costing
Fabrication: Take clear idea regarding the fabrication before taking the order from the buyer/buying house. After then, you need to ensure that you have a strong a good source of fabric.
Size specification: You also need to ensure that there is a correct size specification with the measurement of all the sizes, which will be ordered. Most of the time we see that PO sheet has come with a new bigger size which was not included during costing.
Fabric color: Try to know that, how many colors the style has &
also try to know that, color-wise order quantity
ratio.
Quantity: Take information regarding approximate order quantity.
Shipment date: Asked buyer for the shipment date and check with your production department, whether they have enough space for shipped out the followings qty within the require ship date or tell you’re a possible date. Test requirement: This will allow you to recognize the order need to any test or not. L/C payments term: Take a copy from the respective party previously and discuss with your commercial people regarding all the terms along with payment terms.
Inspection: Get a confirmation from the buyer that, who will inspect the goods. If there involve third party then who will pay the charge.
GSP: Please confirm with the buyer that they need the GSP or not.
Calculating Fabric Consumption
Body Consumption:
Calculate the body fabric consumption at first. If possible calculate it after making the pattern. Be confirmed regarding the dia. Calculate the consumption with adding + 5 gsm extra which fabric is sells in kg (s/j, pique, rib etc.). Or reduce 2” (in width) from the both side which are in yards (tricot, taffeta etc.). Moreover, if the garments are wash garments then make sure that, the pattern has the wash allowance.
Moreover, if clothes|the
clothes} square measure wash
garments then ensure that
the pattern has the wash allowance.
Rib: Calculate the rib consumption carefully because sometimes the garments have a rib at cuff opening & bottom hem. Some individuals erroneously do the consumption considering one cuff.
Neck tape: Calculate the consumption of neck tape.
Applique & others fabric: Ensure that, you’re not missing any appliqué cloth.
Estimate the wastage:Normally we add 9% wastage for the knit items. However, it’s may vary depends on how many processes the garments have. If it is with only front chest print then 9% is ok but if with all-over /rotary print, with heavy wash etc. then you must increase the wastage. Moreover, if the garments with pigments dye then add minimum 25 to 30% wastage because in this pigment dye garments reject percentage is very high.
Others Item
Print: If the garments have print then make sure that you have a clear artwork of it. Check the print quality, dimension & placement. Send the artwork to your printers for a better price idea. Many times, we found that the buyer has asked for so many type/kind prints in the same body which is so difficult for production. Such as, if the buyer asked for Flock + discharge & foil print in at the same artwork then it is not possible for production.
Embroidery: Discuss with your embroidery provider concerning the embroidery & take quotation of price.
Wash: Take the washing cost from the washing factory.
Test: Confirm the charges of the test
from the testing company.
Accessories and Trims
Sewing thread: Confirm that, which thread you need 100% cotton, spun polyester or filaments. Then you need to ensure the count 50/2 or 40/2 or any other denier. It’s may vary on fabrications. Regarding the pigment dye garments, we normally used cotton grey color cotton thread. Calculate the sewing thread consumption part by part & add require wastage percentage.
Labels: Take the quotation from your supplier for the entire woven
& satin/paper label.
Tape: Calculate the consumption of tape
if it has, such as Velvet, herringbone or canvas etc.
Elastic: Make sure which denier & width it need. Then take the quotation
from supplier.
Zipper: If the garments have zippers
then confirm that, from where you will purchase that. Many time the logo zipper
need to import the mold from abroad. Make sure the zipper quality, such metal
or nylon zipper. Check the zipper measurement from your production department
and get prices from your zipper supplier.
Button: Take the button price from your supplier if the garments
have it.
Inter lining: Calculate the
inter lignin price if the garments need.
Patch or badge: Calculate the patch or badge or others metal item
if the garments have.
Finishing item: Tissue paper, silica gel, hang tag, barcode
sticker, backboard, h/tag string, scotch
tape, security tag calculates the prices of these
items.
Hanger: Take the quotation of a hanger.
Poly: Make the measurement of poly. Confirm the quality & with
adhesive or not.
Carton: Find out the carton measurement & take the prices from
carton supplier along with top, bottom & divider.
PP belt: Take the price quotation of pp belt if the buyer asked it.
Commercial Cost
Normally we add 3% of total
purchase (Fabric cost+ other item cost + Accessories cost) as commercial cost
if the L/C payments terms are as sight.
If the L/C is 60 days deferred then you can add 7.5% additional cost of total
price and it will be 15% for 90 days deferred.
CM (Cost of making)
Calculate the CM after finalizing CPM of the factory. It varies depending on Product SMV &
Efficiency.
CPM (Cost Per Minutes) = (Direct
Labor Cost + Operational Cost) of the month/ Usage Minutes (Available Minutes)
of the month.
CM= (SMV × CPM)/ Expected
Efficiency%
Price Break Down of Polo Shirt
Description: 100% cotton pique
polo shirt with two buttons at front placket w/o any pocket. At first, we will
calculate the consumption of body fabric from Size spec which we have got from
the buyer.
Suppose,
i) The body fabric consumption is 5.10 kg / dozen
So, total yarn consumption will be = 5.10 + 9%
= 5.10 + 0.459
= 5.559 kg / dozen
ii) The current yarn price is $3.5.00/kg
iii) The current Pique knitting cost is $0.25/kg (Knitted by circular knit S/J M/c)
iv) Average color dyeing cost is $1.23 / kg
v) Normally Collar & cuff
consumption is 60 gram/body (1 pc collar & 2 pcs cuff)
So, for 12 pcs it will be -0.06 X
12 + 9% = 0.78 kg / dozen
vi) Collar & cuff Knitting
cost is $0.05 (knitted by flat knitting m/c)
Step: 1
Body fabric cost calculation:
Yarn price / kg = $3.50
Knitting cost /kg = $0.25
Dyeing cost / kg = $1.23
Finished fabric cost = $4.98
Step: 2
Collar & cuff cost
calculation:
Yarn cost/Doz = 0.78 X $3.50 = $2.73
Knitting cost/Doz = $0.05 X 12 =
$0.60
Dyeing cost = 0.78 X $1.23 = $.9594
Collar& Cuff cost / Doz = $4.2894
Step: 3
Total production cost:
Body fabric cost (5.559 kg X $4.98)
= $27.68 / Doz
Collar & Cuff cost = $4.2894 / Doz
CM = $5.50 / Doz
Accessories Cost = $2.50 / Doz
Total production cost: = $39.97 / doz
Final Step
Fob pricing of per piece polo
shirt:
Total production cost: = $39.97 / doz Commercial cost will be (3%) = $1.03 / doz (Except Cost of Making)
