Author: Nahian Mahmud Shaikat

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Pre-production (PP) Meeting Requirements and Procedure in Apparel Industry

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PP Meeting Requirements and Procedure in Apparel Industry

PP meeting is a very important part of Garments manufacturing process, a part of the pre-production process to be completed in the right time for smooth Garments manufacturing process. A process where buyer QC/Merchandiser are also involve in checking accuracy. Generally, PP meeting conducted by buyer QC, internal PP meeting by garments manufacturer before that, is a good practice to avoid the risk of failing, meeting location factory conference room or inspection room.

PP Meeting Requirements and Procedure in Apparel Industry

Basic Documents of PP Meeting

  1. QA File (Approved Trim Card)
  2. PO Sheet
  3. Production PDM
  4. Buying house Comments on approved sample
  5. Approved sample
  6. Approved wash standard/Approved shade band-Leg Panel / 1stBach
  7. Shade Blanket/Shade Card
  8. Shrinkage Test Report & Distortion Test Report
  9. Tube Test & Cross Stain Checking Blanket
  10. Embellishment approvals
  11. Fabric & Trim’s Inspection Report
  12. Fabric & Trims inventory report
  13. Button Pull test report
  14. PP Size set sample covering all size

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PP meeting in apparel industry

PP meeting check list

Factory Quality Team Responsibility before PP Meeting

  • Assigned Quality controller receives all approvals and records them on “PP Meeting checklist”. QA also records expected date of receiving non-available approvals and follows up accordingly with Production merchandiser.
  • The QA marks “NA” (not applicable) in case of anything not being used for the particular style.
  • Need to do internal PP meeting by factory QA manager with his QC and production before submitting sample for buyer QC PP meeting.

PP Meeting Activities

Fabrication & Finish Issues

  • All expected fabrication issues especially those highlighted by during fabric inspection report & sample process.
  • Potential production problems according to fabric behavior.
  • Fabric quality, CSV/SSV, Shrinkage, Shade, Cross staining & Wash issues.

Cutting Issues

  • All cutting related issues to be highlighted –fabric relaxation, spreading elongation and tension, panel checking and records measurements variation, plaid matching, pattern adjustment etc.
  • Grading of pocket, panels, inserts, notches etc.

Embellishment Issues

All potential issues in application of embellishment i.e. print, embroidery, rhinestone, heat transfer label, decorative patches etc. are discussed.

Construction and Stitching Issues

  • Sample comments regarding sewing issues and every operation of concerned style is discussed.
  • Emphasis is on critical operations. All out of routine operations are discussed with sampling master which finalized in vendor pre-production meeting.
  • Difficult operations are highlighted and displayed for every style and doing risk analysis report.
  • Difficult operations checklist is maintained and verified during production.

Finishing Issues

  • All expected finishing and packing issues to be highlighted & discussed with vendor. This includes garment shape, pressing, folding, packing etc.
  • Pressing, measuring, QA check, folding & packing instructions are placed and clearly demonstrated to ensure PDM instructions are properly followed.
  • Factory specs men are advised how to measure before pressing & after pressing & keep records.
  • Buyer QC emphasizes on vendor pre-production meeting points during inline inspections.
  • Factory merchandiser gives production time and action plan (T.N.A) to buyer QC in pre-production meeting.
  • After conducting pre-production meeting, buyer QC distributes pre-production meeting recap/Comments to all participants through e mail or hard copy.

PP Meeting Participants

  1. Head of operation
  2. Production Manager (PM)
  3. Operation & Production in charge
  4. Technical Manager, Sampling QA and Pattern master
  5. Production merchandiser
  6. QA Manager
  7. GPQ
  8. Fabric, Store & Finish Manager
  9. Cutting, Sew & Finishing Manager
  10. Maintenance & IE Manager

Written by
A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]
Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Layout, SMV and Operation Breakdown of Garments Finishing Process

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Operation Breakdown of Pant (Bottom) Finishing Process

After completion of the sewing process, what process remain to complete finished garments is called garments finishing the process, also a different section. Not only the sewing process, but also finishing also important and have lots of process like trimming, pressing, and quality inspection, ticketing, folding and packing. Finishing is the last step for before shipping garments. Here I am giving all process lists, SMV, Layout, and process wise production target. Hopefully, you will have detail idea of Layout, SMV and Operation Breakdown of Garments Finishing Process.

Process Layout and Production Target of Pant Finishing Process

NOOperation/Process NamesType ofMNL OPR100%WorkerCountTGT
––WorkerSMVTGT–––
1Loop cut  (5pcs 5 point)H0.252401.131240
2Thread cut (top+in side+Side seam+Hem fray clean)H1.2505.445250
3Pkt clean(5pcs)H0.252401.131240
4Re-Inforcement cut (06 point)H0.23000.911300
5Body carrying to iron section & iron section to Q.I tableH–––––
6Inside IronIRN0.252401.131240
7Inside checkQI0.41501.812300
8Body turnover+ Gmts countingH0.154000.681400
9Top side checkQI0.41501.812300
10Alter rcetify (Gmts+Label)OP0.252401.131240
11Body carrying to btn section & btn section to Q,I tableH–––––
12Shank Btn att.(01 pcs)OP0.16000.451600
13Rivet attach (5ps)OP0.41501.812300
14Button+Rivet checkQI0.23000.911300
15Thread suckingH0.16000.451600
16Lather patch attachOP0.351711.592343
17Full Body IronIRN0.7863.173257
18Measurement check 03 pointQI0.41501.812300
19Get up checkQI0.41501.812300
20Match book attachPM0.252401.131240
21Price tag makePM0.351711.591171
22Price Tag attachPM0.154000.681400
23Label check/Shade label cutPM0.252401.131240
24Shade SheparatePM0.32001.361200
25Body sizing/RatioPM0.252401.131240
26Hard tag attachPM0.23000.911300
27Leg sticker att+ Body dustH0.32001.361200
28FoldingPM0.32001.361200
29Poly close.PM0.252401.131240
30Carton ClosePM0.252401.131240
31EDI + Carton sticker attachPM0.23000.911300
–TOTAL–9.05–4141292
Layout, SMV and Operation Breakdown of Garments Finishing Process
Type of WorkerCountAvailableShort/Plus
PM11
OP6
QI9
IRN4
H11
Total41
Total Manpower41
100% TGT272
70% TGT190

Written by
A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]
Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Job Responsibilities of Garments HR Compliance Department

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Job Responsibilities of Garments HR Compliance Department

HR and Compliance is a big part to make an efficient apparel industry. Human resources compliance department deals with several rules, employees’ legal right, laws and acts to consider, such as the Fair Labor Standards Act, abuse and sexual harassment, antidiscrimination laws, employee’s salary and many more. In export garments manufacturing factory need to be 100% compliant to get order. HR is a part of administration.

Job Responsibilities of Garments HR Compliance Department

Job Titles of HR Compliance Department

  1. Admin & Compliance officer
  2. Executive (HR & Compliance)
  3. Assistant Manager, Manger (HR & Compliance)
  4. GM- HR, Admin and Compliance

Job responsibilities of Garments HR Compliance Department

  1. Developing, implementing and managing an organization’s compliance standard.
  2. Preparing and presenting clear and concise compliance reports to the Board.
  3. Interacting with regulators on compliance issues.
  4. Coordinating efforts related to audits, reviews, and examinations.
  5. Program Prepare and keep the documentation related to audit and compliance.
  6. Assist in developing, implementing, maintaining and reviewing of company policies, rules and regulations in compliance with all applicable employment laws and regulations.
  7. To monitor the floor for checking all kinds of compliance issues.
  8. To motivate the employees for maintaining all kind of personal safety.
  9. Train up all employees on all safety awareness issue; maintain all kinds of training records.
  10. To aware the employees regarding health and safety issues.
  11. Ensure the factories are compliance with social ethics & health and safety requirements, etc.
  12. To find out the non-compliance issues by the daily monitoring & internal audit in the factory. Conduct internal audit in the light of Labor Law, Factory Rules buyers COC & other national & international legal instruments.
  13. Monitor compliance certification BSCI, ICS, SEDEX, NEXT, INDITEX, PRIMEMARK, ACCORD & Alliance etc. and handle their different audits with requirements.
  14. Maintain and implement Accord/Alliance (fire, electrical & structural) standard for creating a safe working place.
  15. Communicate, maintain, handle and implement all social audits whether buyer & certification/membership audit as, ICS, SEDEX, NEXT, INDITEX, PRIMEMARK, ACCORD etc.
  16. Maintain every compliance mechanism/tools internally; through weekly, monthly and yearly comparative statistical report & tools.
  17. Give Suggestions to the management regarding several important pronouncement and decisions of Law & other COC.
  18. Conduct in house training for all employees on OH&S, EMS, Fire Safety, Grievance etc. as advised by factory management,
  19. To adopt, maintain and implement environmental, chemical standard as, Higg Index for the sake of the organization in a sustainable manner etc.
  20. Conduct internal H&S and Environmental assessments in a regular interval.
  21. Review and update all legal documents/certificate/license time to time by communicating with the specific authorities.
  22. Checking routine wise checklist and make report
  23. Update to management all compliance reports in regular interval etc.

HR Job Functions/Activities in Textile and Apparel Industry

  1. Coordinate interview process.
  2. Conducting appointment, termination (closing) and in-service procedures
  3. New employee orientation.
  4. Compiling, sorting and generating periodic reports.
  5. Scheduling and coordination training and orientation sessions.
  6. Attendance and absent status management.
  7. Maintain and Update Employee Personal Files.
  8. Assist to coordinate Recruitment & Selection.
  9. Manpower Planning.
  10. Management & data entries into HRMS.
  11. Handle Employee Resignation, Exit Interview, Clearance, Closing Activation and Final Settlement as required.
  12. Handle disciplinary matters, legal affairs & industrial relations related issues for all the factories. -Authorized to sign all kinds of letters related with administrative activities & disciplinary procedures.
  13. Maintain employee’s (Factory) PF investment.
  14. Performance Appraisal.
  15. Confirmation, Promotion, Increment and associate matters.
  16. Employee counseling.
  17. Arrange all the event management issues for the office in different occasion such as- Best Employee, Birthday and Farewell Program.

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Garments compliance Audit checklist

Written by
A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]
Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Quality Management System in Garments Manufacturing

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Quality Management System in Garments Manufacturing

Garments Quality Management System (QMS)

A garments manufacturing quality management system (QMS) is related to quality control and assurance system that documents (quality manual) processes (Online and offline), procedures, system, planning, responsibilities and task for achieving quality goal and policies to meet buyer requirements.  A quality management system is focus on customer requirement and satisfaction through combine effort of whole organization management by setting up a work standard. A quality management system helps a factory to coordinate and instruct an organization’s functions/activities to meet buyer requirements and improve its effectiveness and efficiency on a continuous basis quality control and improvement. A good quality management can guide a factory to the right path of quality goal, to keep standard of export garments quality; a good quality management system should be implemented.

Quality Management System in Garments Manufacturing

Key Factors of Garments Quality Management

  1. Proper reporting
  2. Strict Materials inspection
  3. Approved trim card
  4. Keeping pattern log, library and evaluation report
  5. Calibrate machine, process, and manpower
  6. Follow SOP and Keeping version names
  7. Visualize quality tools, sample, and metrics
  8. Process audit or AQL inspection
  9. Keeping packing approval
  10. Zero defects station
  11. Review quality result and taking corrective action
  12. Training and evaluate QC
  13.  Internal pre-final Audit before Final Inspection

Proper Reporting

Quality department’s first responsibility is reporting, and then taking action. If they report is doing properly, easy to work on it.

Strict Materials Inspection

Most of times needed raw materials like fabrics; accessories of a garment need to buy from a supplier, so it’s important to inspect all raw materials and ask supplier if there any defects. Because once you make a garment, it’s almost impossible to replace if their faulty fabrics or trims.

Approved Trim Card

Following approved Trim card in store, cutting, sewing and finishing ensuring correct materials and fabrics are joining for every lot.

Keeping Pattern Log, Library and Evaluation Report

Pattern is very sensitive, standard is to keep a pattern library, track and change log of every stage as like before and after size set.

Calibrate Machine, Process and Manpower

Yearly or half yearly calibration of machines to check machine is fit enough, performing well or not. Need to check calibration by 3rd party or machine supplier of CAD plotter, Fabrics inspection machine, shading checking light box, Fusing machine, needle detector machine, pull testing machine and others lab testing machines.

Follow SOP and Keeping Version Names

Follow a SOP for every process and section, keeping SOP change log and version name. ISO method is to keep SOP version name.

Visualize Quality Tools, Sample and Metrics

Visualizing all quality tools, analysis, and quality metrics will make aware about everyone’s performance and responsibilities will help to take decision easily.

Process Audit or AQL Inspection

Inspection garments by AQL audit system before moving garments to next step or process to check process accuracy, passing goods from every section by passing in audit, if audit fail goods back for reprocessing.

Keeping Packing Approval

A system to approve a garment by authorize person (buyer QC, merchandiser or QA manager) before start packing of every lot

Zero Defects Station

Set up zero defect station by through 100% garments quality inspection in sewing and finishing.

Review Quality Result and Taking Corrective Action

Review every sections quality result by a daily or weekly basis and taking corrective action to not to happen and improve in the future. A general meeting can be called with related production and maintenance department and giving responsibilities to improve quality as a part of corrective action.

Training and Evaluate QC

Training is one of the major part garments quality management, Kaoru Ishikawa said: “Quality control starts and ends with training.”  Continuously train up whole quality team about various quality matters and evaluate their understanding.

Internal Pre-Final Audit before Final Inspection

Pre-final Audit or an audit before Final quality inspection procedure as per final inspection procedure to confirms final inspection will be passed of every lot.

Related articles you may love to read

  1. Garments quality control procedure
  2. Garments quality SOP
  3. Garments quality check points and their quality control
  4. Garments quality manual
  5. Garments quality organogram

Written by
A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]
Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Commercial Department Job Responsibilities in Apparel Industry

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Commercial Department in Apparel Industry

Commercial department involve with export and importing raw materials and finished garments, manage and provide necessary export and import documents for smooth export import process in garments manufacturing. Their role is very vital, deal with merchandising and accounts department for their working procedure.

Commercial Department Job Responsibilities in Apparel Industry

Job Responsibilities of Garments Commercial Department

  1. Work with the Export Promotion Bureau
  2. Work with Bank
  3. Work with BGMEA
  4. Buying House Management
  5. Freight Forwarder/Shipping Agent Management
  6. Clearing & Forwarding agent Management
  7. Customs Bond work
  8. Regular Office Work

Commercial Department Job Responsibilities in Apparel Industry

(i) Export Promotion Bureau Work like: “Certificate of Origin (C.O.), Visa Commercial Invoice, Quota issue, SAPTA Certificate, Mexico Certificate, GSP, Metropolitan/Dhaka Chamber (C.O.), etc.

(ii) Banking work like: Master/Export L/C Collection, Master/Export L/C lien to Bank, L/C Transfer to another party, BTB L/C open and its Amendment, Import Doc’s Collect from Bank and Endorsement, Letter of Guarantee/Bank Guarantee for release the Import consignment, Document Purchase for fund, Export Documents submit for payment realization, Bank Bill/Reference Number taken, DHL/FedEx courier Number/Receipt collect, Follow up about Proceed Realization, Import Bill Acceptance & give the maturity date, Payment of BTB LC at maturity, Local Agent Commission Paid, miscellaneous certificate collect, PRC, Bank loan adjustment duly, Bank statement & Voucher collect, renewal & extension of Bank Liability & sanction and so on.

(iii) BGMEA work like: Fabrics and Accessories Utilization Declaration and its Amendment work, Balance Fabrics/Raw material Adjustment, Export Order for export the Stock Lot or Un exported Goods, UD certificate collect, Interbond transfer for Sub-Contract work, BGMEA Certificate collect for “Free of Cost” goods Import, Sample Pass Book renewal for sample goods import, BGMEA License Renewal, Auto-Renewal of Bond License, all types of BGMEA Certificate as needs, yearly member’s ID renewal and so on.

(iv) Buying House Management: Follow-up about order procurement, Master L/C or L/C Transfer Collect, Collect the Cost Break Up for calculation, Collect the Order Sheet, Sketch & Measurement collect from Merchandiser, Proforma Invoice Collect, BTB L/C & its Amendment mail/send to them, Export Document send for collect IC, Bank Bill/Reference Number and DHL/FedEx Courier Receipt number send/Fax to them, buying commission (LAC) paid. 

(v) Freight Forwarder/Shipping Agent Management: Online Shipment Booking to Export for Air and Sea, Shipping Advise collect, Dummy B/L or AWB collect for EPB work, Original doc’s send to them for shipped goods release at the destination, Original B/L or AWB collect as well surrender of export document.

(VI) Clearing & Forwarding agent Management: Import Doc’s Handover to C&F Agent with Bank Endorsement for Clearing the Imported Goods. Shipping Doc’s handover to C & F agent for Export, follow up about Assessment and Examine, collect the Bill of Entry/ Shipping Bill as authenticated Import & Export record.

(vii) Office Work: Correspondence with Foreign and Local Buyer & Buying House, follow up to suppliers about production status as well their booking, shipment and import documents, Export Documents Ready, follow up about finished goods for export progress, E-Mailing regarding several issue, corporate meeting, managing relevant party regarding arising issue as situation, etc.

(Viii) Customs Bond work: For Up-to-Date General Bond, Customs Audit Export Proceed Realization (PRC) statement ready, all certificate and documents submitted to Customs according to Customs Office instruction, Ownership change, Permanent Bond Transfer, Machineries Indemnity Bond release, Lien Bank Change/Addition, Factory Building Extension/Replacement, UP, In-Bond & Ex-Bond work for chemical and for deemed exporter and so on.

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Compliance Checklist for Garments Industry

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Social Compliance Audit

Social compliance deals a company’s employee health and safety others legal right from a social perspective. To makes a compliant factory, need to follow local labor law and international social compliance requirements. Social compliance Audit related to child labor, forced labor, Health and safety, Abuse and Discrimination, Disciplinary practices, Working hours, Remuneration, Freedom of association, Management systems etc. Social compliance is a vital part of the apparel industry because of social compliance Audit impact in a company’s reputation and business. Here in this article, we will share all the compliance checklist for garments industry.

Compliance Checklist for Garments Industry

Compliance Check List

There are many criteria where need a check list and follow in routine wise in apparel industry, here I am giving these checklists and checking criteria for your understanding.

Fire Extinguisher Checklist

  1. Type of Extinguisher
  2. Refilling Date
  3. Due Date
  4. Location
  5. Access in maintained.
  6. Locking Pin in place.
  7. Charge indicator in green area.
  8. Pressure Hose in good condition.
  9. Inspection tag of the existing.
  10. Expired date should be one Month.

Daily First Aid Box Check List

  1. Adhesive (Bandage)
  2. Burn Cream
  3. Viodin (Cream)
  4. Viodin (Liquid)
  5. Provicep
  6. Hexisol
  7. Anticeptic wipes (Savlon Cream)
  8. Anticeptic wipes (Savlon)
  9. Nebanol Powder
  10. Roller Bandage- 2″
  11. Roller Bandage- 4″
  12. Surgical Scissors
  13. Nix
  14. ORS
  15. Gauze Pcs.
  16. cotton
  17. Signature of Nurse

Toilet Check List

  1. Soap
  2. Bucket
  3. Sandal
  4. Tap
  5. Basin
  6. Towel
  7. Adjust Fan
  8. Overall Cleanliness of Toilet
  9. Cleaner Sign

Daily Checklist of Drinking Water Filter

  1. If filter clean
  2. Water level
  3. Water color
  4. If water clean
  5. Water tap
  6. Supply of water
  7. Water pipe switch
  8. Water temperature

Fire Alarm & Testing Report

  1. Condition
  2. Action Taken

Fire Extinguisher Checklist

  1. Nozzle
  2. Number Marking
  3. Safety pin
  4. Meter
  5. Ziczack Marking
  6. Expire Date
  7. Have the Picture of responsible person
  8. Have the inspection card
  9. Have the rules to handling
  10. Signature of Inspector

Fire Equipment Box Checklist

  1. Fire Helmet
  2. Gum Boot
  3. Hand Gloves
  4. Fire Bitter
  5. Fire hook
  6. Hammer
  7. Streacher
  8. Lock Cutter
  9. Respiratory Musk
  10. Fire Blanket
  11. Manila Roof
  12. Gas Mask
  13. Torch Light
  14. Fire Heat Proof Dress

Boiler Check List

  1. Boiler Controling Area
  2. Water Level ok/Not ok
  3. Pressure Meter ok/Not
  4. Safty Valve ok/Not
  5. Gas Header ok/Not

Electrical Equipment Checklist

Substation Room

  1. LT Switchgear
  2. HT Switchgear
  3. PFI Panel
  4. Housekeeping
  5. MDB
  6. Emergency fire pump switch

Production Floor

  1. All Switchboard panels
  2. All emergency switch
  3. All circuit breakers
  4. All electrical cords, plugs
  5. Combustibles distance

Compressor Room

  1. Pressure relief valve
  2. Guarding of belts
  3. Blowdown valve
  4. Pressure gauge
  5. Filters
  6. Lubrication

Generator Room

  1. Cleanliness
  2. Circuit breakers
  3. Lubrication
  4. Temperature
  5. Pressure Gauge
  6. Filters

Schedule Check for Electrical MDB/BD

  1. Name Plate, Key & Rubber Mat Check
  2. All side clean, Indicating Lamp & Cooling Check
  3. Cable Check & Nut-bolt loose Connection Check
  4. Amp. & Volt Meter Check
  5. Cable/Bar Temp & Load balance Check
  6. Earth Line Cable Check
  7. Keep free space in front of DB
  8. Ckt braker/fuse/selector switch Check
  9. Inside clean

Schedule Check for Exhaust Fan

  1. Exhaust Blower Clean                  
  2. Duct Line Clean                               
  3. Heat Exchanger Side Net Clean               
  4. M/C Inside Clean                            
  5. M/C All Side Clean

Schedule Check for Fire Pump

  1. Name Plate Check.                         
  2. All side clean                    
  3. Battery Water Level Check                       
  4. Battery terminal Loose Connection Check                         
  5. Battery Auto Charger Check                     
  6. Hose Pipe/Nozzle Joint Coupling Check.                            
  7. Diesel Tank & Diesel Level Check.                         
  8. Lube Oil Level Check.                   
  9. Delivery Valve Check.                  
  10. Suction Pipe Non Return Valve Check.

Inspection, Test & Maintenance Requirements for Standpipe and Hose Systems

Inspection, Test and Maintenance Requirements for Standpipe and Hose Systems

Generator Maintenance Checklist (monthly) NFPA 110

  1. Fuel
  2. Main supply tank level
  3. Day tank level
  4. Lubrication system
  5. Oil level
  6. Lube oil heater
  7. Cooling System
  8. Level
  9. Adequate cooling water to heat exchanger
  10. Adequate fresh air through radiator
  11. Fan and alternator belt
  12. Exhaust System
  13. Leakage
  14. Drain condensate trap
  15. Batteary System
  16. Electrolyte level
  17. Remove corrosion, case exterior clean and dry
  18. specific gravity or state of charge
  19. charger and charge rate
  20. Electrical System
  21. General inspection
  22. Prime Mover
  23. General inspection
  24. Governor oil level and linkage
  25. Generator
  26. Brush length, appearance, free to move in holder
  27. Unusual condition Vibration leakage noise and temptation
  28. Service room or housing keeping

Lighting Protection System In-depth Visual Inspection Checklist

  1. Any loose connection at junction points
  2. Corrosion in any part
  3. Down Conductor & earth terminal connection is proper (intact)
  4. Any mechanical damage of system component
  5. Conductor are connected properly with surface
  6. Any damage due to surge
  7. All clamps are tightened
  8. Additions or change of the structure (protected structure)
  9. Any others abnormalities
  10. Earth resistance test perform
  11. Continuity (arrester to mesh, mesh to down conductor, down conductor to earth conductor) test perform

Garments factory also check compliance of housekeeping, factory load capacity, sharp tools keeping and register, floor temperature, humidity, quarterly pest control by third party.

Compliance Audit CAP

After a Compliance Audit, factory has to submit corrective action plan (CAP) or preventive action plan. Every month follow up CAP improvement with pictorial and written evidence, a report has to make for buyer.

Written by
A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]
Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam 

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Fusing Process and Quality Inspection of Fusing Machine in Apparel

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Fusing Process and Quality Inspection of Fusing Machine in Apparel

In this article, you will learn how Fusing Process and Quality Inspection of Fusing Machine in Apparel is to be done.

Fusing Process and Quality Inspection of Fusing Machine in Apparel

Fusing Process

Fusing is a process which attaches interlining with garments by heat and temperature, fix interlining and fabrics by bonding in garments manufacturing. The bonding strength between interlining and fabrics is the matter in the fusing process. Generally, bonding strength needs 600-700 Gram. Generally Interlining use in the waistband, pocket flap, box placket in garments.

Fusing Machine Setting

First of all, collect data sheet from an interlining supplier where has written instruction on machine temperature, time and pressure. Setting machine as per supplier recommendation and start test fusing process. And then checking bonding strength, if bonding strength match as per requirement, surely bonding recipe (temperature, pressure, and time) will be noted for a specific lot. If bonding strength does not match with requirement then some experiment needs to do by changing time, temperature and pressure to a style fusing. The thermal paper used to test machine temperature.  

Supplier Technical Data Sheet for Fusing Machine

  • Item: Paper Dot Fusible Interlining – White
  • Weight: 21 GSM
  • Temperature:  140 – 150 Degree Centigrade.
  • Pressure:   3.50 kg
  • Time:    12   to   13 Second.

*It’s an example of supplier data sheet; you should follow your supplier data

Fusing Quality Control

Before fusing, fusing QC do an experiment to fix interning (TEMP, TIME & PRESSURE) as per supplier recommendation. Then if QC finds the buyer required bonding strength by that experiment, will be allowed to start bulk. If QC not gets required bonding strength, he will try differently by changing temp, time and pressure. So QC will set a standard for every style.

After setting of Fusing standard, QC will set mock-up, sending fusing mock-up for washing to check wash appearance.

Fusing Quality Inspection

QC inspects fusing quality under 1000+ lux, keep all inspection record. QC audit from every bundle using AQL or any other system. If there more than two bundles fail in any PO, fusing will stop immediately. There will be another experiment to solve the problem. Then bulk fusing will restart.

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Heat seal machine Operation and Guidelines of Garments Manufacturing

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Sweater and Lingerie: Two Growing Subsections of RMG Sector of Bangladesh

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Sweater and Lingerie: Two Growing Subsections of RMG Sector of Bangladesh

Sweater – A growing sub-section of RMG sector in Bangladesh: Sweater production and export is the promising subsection of Bangladesh RMG sector. As per a report from the Dhaka Tribune, With the technological up-gradation of this sector, it contributes to the western business market expanding with fulfilling winter season demand. During an interview with the Dhaka Tribune, Mohammed Nasir, Vice President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) said that “Sweater manufacturers upgrade their machinaries from manual to automatic, for this reason productivity of workers and overall factory production increases.” Due to global climate change, winter & summer become two major seasons. Winter becomes a season of fashion & styles. In this regard, the sweater becomes trendy with fashionable accessories &fusion design. As per the report of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in the fiscal year 2017-2018, Bangladesh earned from sweat export worth $3.67 billion, whereas in the fiscal year 2016-2017 it was $3.37 billion, a rise of 9.22% within a year. This sector has a share of 12% to the total RMG exports of $30.61 billion of the fiscal year 2017-2018. People from this industry hope that by 2021 this sector annual worth will be $8 billion.

Sweater Export Growth of Bangladesh

Bangladesh Sweater Export Growth

A significant number of Bangladeshi sweater factories have enhanced their production capacity or set up new manufacturing units to cope with the growing demand for sweaters from global apparel buyers. SQ, Dragon, Tupa, Starlight and Diganta Sweaters are some of the major sweater manufacturing in Bangladesh, expanded their capacity at least once recently. Walmart, Marks, and Spencer (M&S), GAP, Tesco, H&M, JC Penney, Zara etc. are the top foreign buyers of Bangladesh sweater section.

Sweater and Lingerie Two Growing Subsections of RMG Sector of Bangladesh

Having a look over the export growth of Bangladesh Sweater section, it has seen that it obtained an improvement steps of stair. Though we have same complicacy of port & logistics system, on contrary we have a goodwill of our quality & trendy sweater products. Meanwhile competition Chinas product diversification is another chance for our sweater section to grab global orders. Saif Ahmed, deputy general manager of Mohammadi Group, which exports nearly three million pieces of sweater in a year, said that work orders shift from China to Bangladesh is another factor for the higher shipment. Hopefully in near future this section will lead as like as knit or woven section.

Lingerie Export of RMG from Bangladesh

Lingerie: Another growing sub-section of RMG sector in Bangladesh: Once upon a time, lingerie was an intangible part of fashion, but with the change of fashion & style it becomes a part of fashion & fashion industry. Bangladesh lingerie industry also developing with times after steeps in global market from 2008. As per International Trade Centre (ITC) report, global lingerie export worth is around $23 billion. China leads the market of lingerie exporting countries with 37%share, while Hong Kong and Sri Lanka leads as second and third with 8.78% and 5.65% of worth respectively. Bangladesh is the 4th largest lingerie exporter with 5.23% share in the global market. Vietnam, India, France, Germany, Cambodia, and the Netherlands are also in the list. Top foreign buyers of Bangladesh lingerie items are H&M, Hunkemöller, Women’secret, Ostin, Ariela-Alpha., M&S, Victoria’s Secret etc. Asif Zahir, director of Ananta Group said that, “Lingerie is an upcoming sector, this is a big market.”

Lingerie Export Growth of Bangladesh

Growth of Lingerie Export of Bangladesh

As per the Apparel story, among a wide variety of intimate apparel items, bra dominates global market with more than half of the total share of worthwhile briefs represent around 33% and corsetry 10%. According to Analysts of Technavio, an international research company, within 2021 global lingerie market will grow at a CAGR of 4.30%. After realizing the global market trend, so many apparel icons of Bangladesh expanded their lingerie unit or established new unit. Top lingerie item exported from Bangladesh are: bra, penty, corset, shapewear, girdle, swimsuits and braces. Ms. Sandamali, Head of Marketing of SQ Birichina, said that “Lingerie manufacturing is a critical task, so not all are interested in this business keeping the number of players limited in the market, thus it gives advantages to the manufactures in terms of competition. While buyers generally tend to switch from one supplier to another on price issue in case of basic apparel items, such scene is less likely in undergarment business because factories skilled and equipped to manufacture this complex product are not too many in the market.” In the fiscal year 2017-18, the export worth of lingerie items – women’s innerwear and nightwear reached $1.15 billion, the rise of 7.84%from the previous fiscal year 2016-17 worth $1.07. As per the financial express, Md Syful Alam, manager, merchandising and marketing, Yunusco Bangladesh Ltd said that “Lingerie is a complicated and technical product that needs a sophisticated design with right fabric and tailoring to yield a good and satisfactory fit”. ” This is the reason why we require the items IE-Industrial Engineering in Garments,” he added.

Lingerie Products Exported from Bangladesh

Different kinds of lingerie items exported from Bangladesh

As per, Apparel Resources News-Desk, M Ghulam Faruq, Chairman of SQ Birichina, said that, “To be honest, Bangladesh is still not doing much to produce the premium segment of lingerie items.” He thinks that lingerie is an item that needs continuous changing of fashion with taste change. “You need continuous innovation in fabric design and product design to stay competitive in the lingerie market. It is a difficult business,” he quoted. Manufacturer starts investing on this growing section of RMG sector in Bangladesh. Bangladesh need strong R&D as well as design & innovation team for the development of this sector. In coming future, it will be indeed a great sector of GDP earning as like as knit, woven or denim.

References

  1. The Apparel story
  2. Textile Today
  3. The Financial Express
  4. The Dhaka Tribune
  5. Export Promotion Bureau

Written by,

Sharmin Akther Diba

Industrial & Production Engineer

Rajshahi University of Engineering & Technology

Email: [email protected]

LinkedIn: Sharmin Akther Diba

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Garments QC File

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Garments QC File

A QC file is quality control file in garments manufacturing also known as Trim Card or Garments swatch card, have all items what used in garments, Fabrics-trims for specific color and style, instruct what color and code number thread/label/zipper will be used for specific style and color. A trim card help Garments QC and production team using correct fabrics and trims in every style what exact fabrics and trims want garments buyer, consider as an important document. Generally store QC/ merchandiser make trim card, approve by buying house merchandiser. Factory merchandiser is responsible for on time QC file making, taking approval from buying house and delivering to production department. A QC file is such an important part in garments manufacturing, size set sample cannot be cut without its approval from buying house.

Garments QC File

A complete QC file includes; trim card, PDM and PO sheet, documents for QC team what needed to attach with garments, operational requirements given in PDM with specific product sketch. Without the QC file, garments quality team cannot perform their job perfectly.

Uses of Trim Card in Garments

  1. Store– to check trims and accessories by store QC after in-housed in store
  2. Sewing– to check attaching sewing trims and accessories when production running in line
  3. Finishing– to check finishing accessories weather attaching correct or not
  4. Final inspection Room– Buyer QC checks whole garments items with trim card.

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam

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Pilot Run Process in Garments Industry

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Pilot Run Process in Garments Industry

A pilot run is a precautionary manufacturing process of Garments manufacturing after PP meeting and before starting bulk production. Pilot run is also called as Trial run in Garments manufacturing, generally done in bigger lot (3000+ quantity), manufacturer cut 200-250 pcs for pilot run. Pilot run done in bigger quantity than size set. Main purpose of pilot run is to fix garments measurement within tolerance limit .After passing PP sample, Garments manufactures go for pilot run to ensure Measurement and Garments construction correction is okay, most of times pilot run sample also have measurement deviation, so pattern adjustment is applied for bulk. If Pilot run cannot be passing to buyer, bulk cutting cannot start, buyer procedure doing pilot before bulk.

Pilot Run Process in Garments Industry

Why Need to do Pilot Run Before Bulk Production

  1. To avoid mistake risk of bigger Garments lot
  2. To check measurement after correction on PP sample pattern to ensure bulk garments accurate measurement
  3. To check Garments sewing quality, ensure successful removal of size set sample defects
  4. To set sewing line and smooth production for bulk
  5. Starting production in small portion to minimize error.

Pilot Run Meeting Activities

  • Checking pattern, adjustment history and review
  • Pilot run meeting generally coordinate by concern buyer QC or Factory quality head
  • Review Pilot Run sample and compare quality with approved sample
  • Checking measurement and compare improvement with PP sample
  • Taking all precautions for bulk production
  • Risk Analysis of all critical operations
  • Checking washing appearances, shade with approved standard, hand feel

Pilot Run Meeting Checklist

  1. Approved Sample
  2. QA Style File
  3. PO Sheet
  4. Production PDM/Bulk PDM, Styling Check with Updated PDM & seal sample, Check the specification
  5. Before Wash Spec by CAD
  6. Approved sample Comments
  7. Approved Trim Cards, Trims Placement check with updated PDM
  8. All Sewing Trims Approval
  9. Body Fabric (Approved Dye Lot)
  10. Embellishment Approval(EMB/Print/Rhinestone)
  11. Approved Wash Standard/V-Code
  12. Shade band- Leg Panel
  13. Shade Blanket
  14. Shade Card
  15. Shrinkage Test Report
  16. Distortion Test Report
  17. Tube Test/ Cross Stain Checking Blanket
  18. Button/ Rivet Pull Test Report & mock up
  19. Home Laundry for Heat Seal LBL/Button/Care LBL/Leather Patch/Rhinestone
  20. TNA
  21. Fabric & Trims Inventory Report
  22. Fabric & Trims Inspection Report
  23. Vendor’s Internal PP Meeting & Evaluation Report
  24. Pattern checking, Change Log
  25. Washing T- (Tint) Heavy or less, (abrasion) Less or heavy (coverage all dry process), H- (Hand feel) Hard or soft
  26. Match Number UPC and care label each pieces
  27. Waist Closer buttons check
  28. Security Tack each pieces
  29. Check Zipper slider open & close
  30. All hardware
  31. ATF button & Elastic Pull & check both side.
  32. Belt tack stitch both end & weaving quality & belt size.
  33. Belt tracking number should be same all the pieces
  34. Check inside pocket, remove stone, dust, long thread.
  35. Hanger, sizer check with size label After attached

Written by

A.M. Amirul Islam (Washim)
Email: [email protected]

Linkedin: A.M. Amirul Islam